Feeling on top of the world,
A winter trip to Mt Feathertop

Reprinted from "The HOSTELLER" Winter 1989

A winter snow climb to the top of Victoria's highest peak is difficult but not impossible for the relative novice and the view is spectacular. JOHN BRAAKHUIS reports.

Imagine the overpowering sense of exhilaration and satisfaction that Edmund Hillary must have felt climbing the summit of Mt Everest and you will have some idea of the sense of achievement in our own winter ascent of Mt Feathertop.

We felt on top of the world. Lapping up the brilliant winter sunshine our party surveyed the surrounding snow capped mountains protruding through the blanketed cloud cover beneath us. The Razorback, Diamantina Spur, Mt Loch and Mt Hotham were in easy view and far in the distance over 10Okm away in New South Wales the snow capped peaks of the Kosciusko Main Range could be seen protruding through the distant blue haze.

Our climb began much like any other bushwalk. With a full weekend's provisions, tent, clothing and sleeping bag in our packs we put on our walking boots, strapped our packs on and headed off up the Bungalow Spur track.

The start of the walk was deceptive, it gave no indication of what we were to encounter later. For example: the steady incline of the track didn't exhaust us, the trees hid our view of the ascent and being below the snow line the track was clear of snow. We knew not to rush ahead but to proceed wisely at a steady pace, conserving our energy for the later part of the climb.

The Bungalow Spur track climbs steadily taking us past Picture Point where trees were cut down in the 1920's to improve the view. We continued slowly but steadily past Tobias Gap and Wombat Gap. Snow first appeared in patches here and there, behind rocks, next to trees and lying against the track embankments. We looked in wonder and excitement at our first glimpse of snow for the season. As we continued upwards we could measure our progress by the increasing amounts of snow around us. The patches of snow became bigger, then they joined together eventually covering the track with knee high snow.

At this point our party regrouped to begin the real work. The ascent is a team effort; it can only be tackled by an equal contribution from everyone. Like a cycling team who share the lead to slice through the air, We take our turn in front to break through the knee high snow with our footsteps. For five minutes at a tme we take our turn at the lead, lifting our feet then standing on and compressing the snow ahead one step at a time.

Our progress is slow but steady, each foot of progress is a minor victory. We take joy at being the firs tup the BungalowTrack in winter and making our mark on the fresh snow. After exhausting ourselves for five minutes in the lead we each take a welcome break at the rear. It is easier at the back because the footsteps of those ahead have cleared a path.

After approximately one hour of breaking our path through the snow we reached the old Feathertop Hut site for a welcome break. There was no sign of the hut as the ruins were hidden under the snow. While resting we prepared ourselves psychologically for the next stage on to the Federation Hut site.

The snow from this point on was deeper and softer than the previous section. A great deal of energy was required to break through the snow, but we knew we could overcome this difficulty by working as a team. This section is about 1 km long and took over 1 hour to complete.

Our path was lined both sides with the aptly named snow gums. The branches of the gums were heavily laden with snow. As the snow melts in the morning sunshine it weakens its hold on the branches and crashes to the ground with a loud thump. The branches relieved of the oppressive weight of the snow rapidly spring back to their usual shape and catapult the remaining snow across the track and occasionally across us. The snow gums eventually give way to a clearing and the Federation Hut. Here we put down packs and set up camp on the snow.

After a relaxing lunch inside the hut our party set off for the summit. We proceeded slowly through thick snow which gradually became higher and higher until it was almost waist high. Our progress was nearly halted at this point because of the deep snow. Our only saving grace was a pair of snow shoes carried by our leader Bruce Meincke. Here Bruce compressed a path with the snowshoes which enabled the remaining members of the party to proceed without breaking through the snow. Eventually at a higher altitude a crust of ice formed on top of the snow. Our boots only made a minor impression on the snow and the walking became easier Our energies were directed to gaining altitude not fighting the snow.

The final route to the summit required considerable care. We carefully took a line about 10 metres to the left of the edge of the ridgeline. Experienced mountaineers know that snow builds up on the ridge creating an overhanging line of snow with no solid foundation, known as a cornice. If the party were to walk on the edge, the cornice could break off plunging the party hundreds of metres down the ridge in an avalanche of snow. If the correet path is taken the danger is minimal.

We continued on, looking anxiously upwards hoping to reach the top soon. One or two false summits tricked the newcomers. Eventually the party reached the summit. The view was spectacular and fortunately the weather was fine. We enjoyed the view as much as possible knowing that in these treacherous alpine areas the weather can change in a matter of minutes plunging us into possible rain, blizzard and white-out. Our luck held and the sun kept shining. It was all worth the effort.