Marathon Epitaph?

French Island 20-21 Oct 2001
(by Colin Cody)

The bus driver hesitates at the only General Store on French Island.

"Mosquito repellent? ... you'll need it"

"Nah, we're tough, we're bushwalkers, we're doing a 50 km walk...".

Driver Keith and wife Lois give us a friendly but funny look and we continue in the mini-bus to the camp on their property (actually, Lois warned me about the mozzies when I booked the site but I forgot to tell the others). Everything's cheap here (except mosquito repellent if you forget to bring it). $4 camp, $1 shower and toilet free. No rates, no car registration, no taxes, no GST, no voting (well ... at least no rates and no car rego ... not sure about the rest). Koala bears everywhere here (I know they're not actually bears). But this really is a strange place. In the paddock near the house, some distance from any gum trees, there is a solitary pear tree - and a koala bear in it! I ask Lois what he's doing up a pear tree. She doesn't really know but says every now and then she sees one in there. It was a nice tree - in fresh spring bloom. Maybe it's just a nice place to sit for a while on his way from one side of the farm to the other she says. We get the customary touristy treatment. The old Chicory Kiln is still intact - built in 1896 by Lois's great grandparents - a whole lot of other relics look like they have been lying around nearly that long as well. Lois and Keith's place is like old McDonald's farm. There is one pet sheep making a lot of noise for some reason. A herd of chooks and ducks follow you around. No foxes here says Lois, but a hawk will take a small chicken if it gets the chance. A big screw top jar on the picnic table - 'food for chooks and ducks' the label says - is obviously to entertain the tourists. The contents of the jar was disappearing fast when I was reminded we had a walk to get on with.

So we left camp behind and pounded off eagerly to explore 50 km of the island. Two thirds is National Park and generally flat. But surprising views were discovered and the Park was especially scenic now in Spring. No rabbits here but a hare raced across the road in front of us. We hesitated at a slow moving Copperhead snake catching a bit of Spring sun at the side of the track. Not many stops though or the mozzies would get you.

Smiling? But then it's only 15km into the walk! (l-r):Trevor,Colin,Robert,John

Exactly 11 hrs later we returned. The GPS said 49.8m - near enough we thought. Only one of us attempted to cook in the dark. No one bothered with the shower. We just crashed. Koalas were grunting around us and somebody was snoring now and then but it all didn't seem to matter. Next morning I'm still alive. The shower is stone cold but still worth a dollar. Lois had another bigger group to pick up coming over for the day. She gets the big bus out this time to take us back to the ferry. 1975 model Comair ex Commonwealth transport bus (even older than my car!). None of these left on the road on the mainland'. This one was in not bad condition. Lois who weighs a sprightly 50 kg or so manoeuvres the big noisy diesel around the dirt roads like a seasoned truck driver. We were impressed.

End of story? not quite. Next day I can't walk. One leg is cramped up and the knee is wonky. I'll come good eventually - always do after a big walk. But a few days later it's worse. So I go to the quack for the ultimatum. I'm afraid he's going to tell me it's finally time to retire. Is this the end of the marathon road? Not so....shingles' he says. Bloody hell! 'What's shingles?'. He traces the symptoms to a small rash and a few spots on my leg. Apparently some sort of non contagious virus nothing to do with the walk. He gives me some stuff and says I'll be better within a week. Ready for the next marathon!

Useful Notes - Hour or a bit more drive from Melb, or the Frankston Line terminates right at the beachfront next to the Stony Point ferry. Allow extra time to park and buy ferry ticket. Ferry departs Stony Point Sat 8.30 am/10.00 am - departs Island Sun 9.30 am/10.15am. (Passengers & Cycles - no cars). Cycling restrictions inside Park areas. Transport from the jetty essential - easy to book. Numerous new water tanks now located inside the National Park - water good quality. Park tourist map fine for navigation but we found some track signs lacking. Spring best time to visit. Great potential for Easy Base-camp or Accommodated Weekend that is something different. Options - Farm (our camp)/Fairhaven (Nat Pk site) (toilet/no fires)/or Prison Farm (accommodated if this is your style). All must be booked. For a map/brochure, contact French Island Information Centre: (03)59801241.

Oh, and don't forget the mosquito repellent!