A
NSW Road Trip-by
Fraser Johnson
Saturday
30th October to Sunday 7th November 1999
Angus
Boud-RPM
Rob Dewhurst-Micro
Fraser Johnson-Crossfire
Peter March-RPM
John O’reilly-Diablo
Gary
Smith-Whiplash
After three days of kayak support the last thing I wanted was to drive to NSW, alas the things we do to paddle!
The plan was to meet the rest of the crew around midday at the post-office of a small town called Yarra near Goulburn. Leaving 3am Saturday for the long drive with numerous ‘powernaps’ along the way, I arrived at the meeting place at 11.45am.One small problem, if you blinked while driving through Yarra you would miss it, yes, that’s right, Yarra was a locality, with 3 houses, 4 horses, 2 dogs and certainly no post-office. A quick call from one of the locals’ residences to Angus’ mobile saw me at the internationally recognised meeting place of McDonalds (Goulburn).
Upon arriving at Macca’s much discussion took place as to which river(s) to head for. The main purpose of this trek was, hopefully, to catch the Wollondilly at a rarely seen reasonable level. According to the ‘Wollondilly Graph’ (yes folks, this is professionalism) it was at a paddlable level but dropping rapidly (an old pun, but a pun none-the-less) although there was rain around, but it was dropping rapidly, although it was overcast…….and so the discussion went for quite some time. I think the fact someone mentioned we could stay at the Canberra youth hostel rather than camping in the rain swayed Rob to the negative, as he seemed quite perplexed as to how he was going to fit gear for three days into his Mr Clean (a very small kayak).
The mighty Murrumbidgee won the vote so off we headed to Tharwa (the get-out). The drive to Tharwa saw us lose Gary, after some backtracking we figured (hoped) he knew a shorter route and would catch-up with us later.
The section we planned on paddling sounded like a relaxed warm-up, with the guidebook suggesting it be ‘suitable for competent novices’. The put-in and the get-out looked wide and flat, so much so I considered running shuttle.
The first few kms. were wide flat and sandy with a lovely headwind to boot. The river then narrowed considerably, forming a spectacular rock gorge. Seemingly from nowhere the horizon line dropped away, which brought a smile to our faces. There were several rapids in this gorge, some of which we studied for quite some time. One consisted of a 1 metre drop with a bit of a stopper which Rob nearly back-looped on ( glad that wasn’t me). On a 1 metre drop, 3 chute rapid John decided to swim the centre chute, with his boat opting for the right chute but getting broached half full of water. Angus scaled the small cliff to release the boat with relative ease and we were on our way. This gorge was quite exciting and in high water the rapids would join up for an incredible ride. I must say it certainly would’ve scared the proverbial out of most novices I know.
After a great first days’ paddle we headed for the comforts of the youth hostel which happened to have the convenience of the Internet so that we could check our river levels. Wishing to quench our thirsts after a big day we followed directions to the nearest watering hole, which we failed to find and so returned drier than ever.
Sunday 31st Murrumbidgee-Bredbo to Colinton 16km
Gary woke up not feeling the best so decided to head for home, but not before helping out with the shuttle, which was greatly appreciated.
The start of this paddle seemed oddly familiar, wide, flat, sandy and a headwind. We finally came across some good stuff, a safe 1-½ metre drop that we paddled, had lunch then paddled again. I said it was safe although some of the lines taken made it seem quite difficult.
Now some even better stuff, a 200 metre long, 3 drop gorge. The first drop everyone paddled with ease, if you nuffed the second you could be in for a rather nasty swim. The third reads from the book ‘the 4 metre waterfall which drops into a short, narrow chasm which undercuts a boulder on the left, and has a large rock under the surface on the same side just downstream of the fall’. As inviting as it sounded it’s a good thing there was enough water to take the chicken-chute, sure it was more vertical but there wasn’t that nasty undercut. We pondered at this drop for quite some time, with Angus & I being the only two deciding to paddle it. Having picked our lines we sat in the eddy above, Angus said “after you” I said “no,no after you”, funny how paddlers are so polite at the top of knarly drops. Angus grabbed a flat stone to decide it with a toss, “smooth or rough”, I called smooth as it tumbled through the air almost in slow motion, it landed rough, yeees. Angus powered for the horizon and dropped out of sight, a look of extreme concern covered John's face who was in my sight. Because of the shallowness at the top which reduced his speed, Angus had gone over the drop more vertical than desired, hitting some hidden rocks at the bottom and stopping momentarily. He was okay but the RPM’s nose was slightly dinged. Now it was my turn, I took a few deep breaths and headed for my line, which would hopefully avoid Angus’ result. Everything went pretty much as planned, with a safe run and a sigh of relief.
Being so polite today Angus and I thought it the noble thing to paddle the other boats down to save the other guys a difficult portage (you don’t believe that for a moment do you?).
The rest of this trip was rather disappointing (read flat) and hardly worth the paddle just for the short, albeit exciting gorge.
Monday 1st Murrumbidgee-Pine Island to Kambah Pool 14km
A number of gentle rapids greeted us this day before reaching ‘Red Rock Gorge’ which contained a powerful 1 metre drop where we played forever executing nosestands, tailstands and loops galore. The RPM Angus was in received even more of a bent bow so he thought it time to move on. Just downstream of this brilliant playspot is the ‘CHASM’, which we portaged owing to the fact being dead would spoil an otherwise beautiful day. The ‘CHASM’ has being paddled but if you missed THE line you would be rather agitated/concerned/trembling….get the picture.
Below the ‘CHASM’ is the Toaster, a tricky chute with approx. 2 of metres of drop to it. You needed to start left, head right towards a partially undercut boulder then back to the left. The line looked very achievable so I went first this time, slamming into the undercut rock. Seeing my efforts swayed the decision of the others to portage except Angus. He ballsed up his line, flipped at the bottom and washed completely under the undercut, disappearing for about 2 minutes………………………oh sorry, I got a bit carried away there, he did flip, with about 1 foot of boat clipping the edge of the undercut but nothing to worry about really.
The remainder of the trip contained quite a few grade 3’s, with this section being the most consistent that we did on the Bidgee.
Tuesday 2nd
Rob and Peter decided to make tracks rather than paddle today and get back to Melbourne very late. We decided to do the previous day’s section that was so much fun, until someone found a three-day section on the Shoalhaven in the book, which sounded rather tempting.
While at an outdoor store buying various supplies we met a local paddler who gave us the lowdown on the Shoalhaven. He suggested a day trip which we might like to do, and so this became a leisurely day and drive to the Shoalie.
We arrived in the town of Nerriga around dinnertime and didn’t feel much like cooking, so headed to the ‘local’ for a ‘counter’. It was hard to believe a town with a population of 9 (yes nine) could support a Pub. Although they didn’t do ‘counters’ they kindly whipped up a great meal from their Melbourne Cup Lunch leftovers, which more than satisfied our hunger. We asked about the chances of a meal tomorrow night and they said they were having a BBQ and wine tasting, we said “see you tomorrow night”. [ It ended up they put on a superb BBQ just for the three of us, what country hospitality!]
The locals had been drinking since midday and were all quite merry (read intoxicated), a couple of them joined us for a game of pool. Although they couldn’t walk without support from the pool table they could play like Eddie Charlton, I guess we were lucky they weren’t sober otherwise we might not have won our one game.
Wednesday 3rd & Thursday 4th Shoalhaven-Welcome Reef to the High Tension Powerlines 8km
The local paddler we met yesterday supplied us with information on the get out (a bit of a 200 metre hike up a hill) and how to get there (just turn left at Nerriga and stick to the fire trail), if only it were that easy. Only being an 8 km section we didn’t see the need for an early start.
We found our friends’ instructions to the get out weren’t quite accurate. He forgot about that left turn you need to make so as not to end up in whoop whoop. After seeking directions from a local land holder in whoop whoop, we were on our way to the river on what we were assured by numerous people to be a two-wheel drive accessible track. It was accessible most of the way to the river, if it wasn’t for that small ford and steep, slippery hill after it the Vectra would’ve made it. The Subie made it through and up the hill quite easily, then Angus valiantly attempted the same (points for trying though). After numerous attempts and much wheel-spinning later and collecting a huge rock and mud under the front panel below the bumper Angus decided to leave the car at the ford. Work cars are great aren’t they, especially ones you can swap any day of the week. I had to agree with Angus when he said he was testing the vehicles’ traction control system and overall limits (I think we found them). (Angus works for Holden).
The usual put-in for this trip is at Oallen Ford although our local paddler told us we could cut off the first 5kms, which is mostly flat, with a 300 metre walk down Ningee Nimble ck. This sounded quite appealing as we had had our fill of flat water.
Well, here we are about to paddle the infamous Shoalhaven, paddling into the unknown. Paddling a river for the first time without a guide certainly adds another dimension to the experience, something that we really enjoyed. The rapids in this spectacular gorge are formed mainly by rock shelves, which span the entire river, often with numerous options to run.
After a couple of easy 3’s came an exciting rapid with a fair gradient and a large rock just underwater which provided a good boof . Angus went first, with a clean run and a near perfect boof, he was pretty happy. I followed his line for a drama free run, although the next day I totally nuffed my line, dropping over sideways and being back-looped big time, to the amusement of the others after I washed out. John decided to portage so Angus got a second bite of the cherry (damn, too slow again).
With rain falling heavily and not knowing the river we decided to get a move on so as to beat the rising water. We knew the Shoalie had a large catchment and rose rapidly (two weeks before we arrived in the region some areas received 12 inches in 36 hours, now that’s what I call rain).
Having had described to us the largest rapid on this section we proceeded with much anticipation. The spray seen from far upstream signified Rodeo Falls, a 3-½ metre two-stage drop, which we approached
cautiously, to say the least. With cameras at the ready Angus excelled toward the drop, the concentration chiselled into his face. Over the first stage cleanly he quickly disappeared into white oblivion for the second stage before popping out of the stopper at the bottom absolutely pumped.
My run felt how Angus’ looked, down the first drop then complete whiteout for a second.
Not far downstream from Rodeo was a powerful chute which amazingly had the Crossfire cartwheeling, quite a sight I’m told. John pulled off an exciting move here, being looped so quickly he didn’t have time to be worried, it looked sensational. Angus had a burl in the Crossy as I wanted to see it cartwheel, aside from me wanting to paddle the RPM. At one time Angus got completely submerged, such was the power of this chute, he appeared with my boat slightly bent. He said he felt a bit concerned when he felt the boat flexing around his legs, (as you would). Daylight of some concern we moved on, keeping a watchful eye out for the powerlines, so as to avoid a three-day trip without supplies.
We reached the powerlines and started looking for a track up the cliff (not ‘hill’ as was suggested). Our 300 metre hike-out involved roping the boats a short distance then harnessing them behind you while scrambling on all fours at times so as not to fall down the cliff backwards. An hour of this torture saw us reach the top feeling quite exhilarated, “you certainly feel alive after that” someone said. “That’s because we’re so close to being dead” was the reply.
The paddle was so good (it was worth the climb-out) we did this section twice, although the river had dropped somewhat from the previous day.
Friday 5th Upper Snowy-Munyang Power Station to Island Bend 8km
We drove to Jindabyne to hopefully (hydro. demand) catch the Snowy
flowing.
Upon checking the level at the Tourist Info. we found they were generating with
one of two turbines, a good level.
This is what Angus had read and heard all about, MUNYANG, as we drove up to the
station I asked John to read the guidebook description to get Angus excited. ‘The
flow incessant and powerful, the rapids continuous and difficult’, it boasted,
as if to intimidate. The numbers 4 and 5 were also scattered throughout the
text. I assured Angus it wasn’t as bad/good as it sounded.
Hitting the water with great anticipation we made our way down, boat-scouting
wherever possible. This is an exciting river that requires great concentration
to negotiate, as there are numerous places you could get broached. What a
fantastic day. We were trying to picture the river flowing with two turbines and
imagined what a buzz it would be, we crossed our fingers for tomorrow.
Saturday 6th Upper Snowy-Munyang
Power Station to Island Bend
Bad news upon checking the level-nil flow in the Snowy. We drove down
the road to the gauge on the Thredbo River hoping this was flowing, too low.
We killed some time eating, and browsing the shops of Jindy waiting for the
forecast rain to develop, hence Munyang would probably start generating or the
Thredbo flowing.
Around 2.30 pm just when we figured it was time to head home we found out
Munyang was generating, ‘you beauty’ was the reaction from Angus and me.
John was hoping to head home at a reasonable time, no such luck.
Arriving at Munyang I peered into the outlets and exclaimed excitedly to Angus
"I think that’s two turbines", I checked with someone inside and
they confirmed this, rushing to inform Angus we just grinned at each other.
Rain was falling as we headed off, making the river more intimidating. The first
rapid which is right near the start was absolutely pumping, it contained three
stoppers of varying size, all capable of giving you a trashing.
We made a number of inspections with one portage being taken for the day. Some
of the rapids ran for kilometres with constant grade 3+ water requiring scouting
from each crest, exhilarating stuff I can tell you! The water was far more
powerful than yesterday with it being much closer to the guidebooks’
description.
We approached the waterfall cautiously and grabbed an eddy on the left to have a
good scout. The word ‘waterfall’ is somewhat misleading as I don’t believe
anyone has actually paddled over the steepest part, as a rock bumping you off
line at the top could send you backwards down a huge crevasse with a massive log
jammed in it. There is a chute beside this horror which is quite runnable. At
the bottom of the chute is a pourover without a great deal of washout, to
negotiate, followed by a left turn to face a 50-foot river-wide pourover with
upstream and downstream smiling stoppers. An intimidating sight to say the
least.
I went first as I may not have paddled it if I saw Angus take a trashing (if
that makes sense). I got through the chute and pourover okay except I was
offline and without speed for the harder stuff. I thought to myself ‘I could
be in for a decent surf (read trashing) here if I don’t straighten up.
Dropping into the stopper I hung onto my exit stroke with all my might, saw my
bow rising skyward, but then it released me, what a relief. Angus couldn’t see
any of this and soon came down with a perfect line and asked, "how did you
go?" I was that close to getting munched it wasn’t funny.
WHAT A SENSATIONAL TRIP!
After a pizza John and Angus started the long
drive back to Melbourne, while I decided to see what the rivers were doing
tomorrow.
Sunday 7th Thredbo River-Thredbo to the rangers station
Paddlers-Gnu, Murph, Darlo, Shacko and me.
Today I hooked up with three locals from the Alpine Paddlers Club who were kind
enough to take me down the Thredbo. Being a first timer on this river I was
slightly anxious at the start, although got into the rhythm after a while.
Gnu loaned me an Attack, without which I would not have been able to paddle the
Thredbo, as this river is low volume, tight and technical.
Shacko paddled an inflatable kayak and took his video camera along to film some
of the exciting parts, which we watched after paddling.
This was a great creek with the odd pin and broach occuring, although without
much volume in the river was not too dangerous.
Nine paddles in
ten days. Magnificent!!
