By Roger from Issue No. 35

Ballast laying is relatively straight forward, but is worth spending some time on as this is an important area if you are seeking a realistic look for your layout. For a start, choose your ballast material, this needs to be very fine for N scale and should be a gravel material, NOT sawdust or other light scatter material. I used some grey coloured material that I purchased from Sunbury exhibition, but there is lots on the market and a large range of colours

I spent a lot of time looking at the real thing, and collecting real ballast at various locations so I could compare colours. The colour may be different in between two parallel tracks, probably darker and perhaps with some weeds). The June feature article on Tolmie in AMRM 1996 (pages 25, 28 & 29) has some good colour shots that I think look right. Other different shades include the difference between old and new ballast, and the colour at stations where the loco stands and around fuel depots. Older ballast tends to get browner with rust from the rails and other dirt and dust. I mix my own colours adding brown to the mainly grey mix to achieve a slightly weathered look. So that’s colour, in the end it’s up to you, do what you like. Try it on a bit of scrap track before you start in earnest, as the colour may darken after the water/PVA mix is applied.

Then there’s the shape, how it sits around the sleepers, how far it spreads beside the track and the shape between parallel tracks. The amount around the sleepers varies. Recently ballasted mainline track may not have the sleepers visible, the ballast completely covering them. Sidings may have the sleeper tops well clear of the ballast. The shape of the ballast beside the track varies depending on the number of parallel tracks and where the track is situated, eg. in a cutting, on an embankment or on flat ground. Once again you can’t beat a visit to the real thing or studying photos of the prototype. Also look at other models and find out what was used on the ones you like.

Pour the ballast material along the track. Use a brush to shape the ballast to the shape you desire. I use a flat artist brush about ¼"(6mm) wide. Whatever you use, make the ballast look the way you want. Be careful to keep the area clear along the inside edges of the track where the wheel flanges run. I then drip a mixture of water and PVA glue, about 50/50 with a drop or 2 of washing up liquid (a bit less glue won’t hurt) onto the ballast with an eyedropper. Wait until tomorrow for it to dry.

To simulate new ballast on old, lay the old ballast first, leaving space to add the new colour ballast, then let that dry (or nearly dry) and then put your ballast on later. Once again, think about the real thing, how is it laid, what happens when new ballast is laid, (not necessarily now, but rather for the period you are modelling) and then try to simulate that. If there is a problem with loco running after the ballast is dry, run the blade of a small flat screwdriver along the inside edge of each track to clear any ballast. For points, I do not ballast between the rails, but the outside edges can be done normally except for around the actuating arm. The main thing is to keep ballast well clear of the blades.

Add whatever effects you think look good, weeds, puddles, etc. Some people put the ballast down first then the adjoining scenery, others do the scenery first. I’ve done both and I don’t think it matters much. Have fun.

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