I left school at 13 and had many and varied jobs, the first being on a dairy farm. Next was a wheat farm, then a saw mill, dry cleaners and plumbing with my brother for eight years in Corryong Northeast Victoria at the head of the Murray River. I met my future wife there, married and moved to Carrum Downs to take a job as maintenance officer at an old peoples village. This was a live-in job with house supplied - on call night and day for 22 years. In the meantime my father taught me the locksmithing trade.
I took long service leave touring around Australia with a caravan , taking my key cutting and locksmithing gear with me . On return I transferred to the salvage division of the organisation and stayed there for 10 years.
After that I took a new field of work. Security Guard. I worked at this for eight years and after a couple of heart attacks and a four way by-pass, I retired.
I have enjoyed working with wood, so I purchased a lathe and became a member of the Peninsula Woodturners Guild.
I am now living in what I call quality time with my wife.
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To make the pen I first cut timber into shapes 1 cm x 2 cm x 20 cm on the band saw using a fine toothed blade. The contrasting timbers are then glued together with good PVA glue and clamped for 24 hours. I then cut across at 45 degrees and turn ends to square and drill. Next I cut to length for the blanks for the pen This allows for movement of the drill at the start of the hole or for break out at the end of the hole. Next I glue in the sleeve with PVA and leave for 24 hours. I then turn, not letting the tool go to the end of the blank, always coming into the end. This I find does not let it chip off at the end.
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I find that I get good results from Red Gum which is a heavy dense timber. I start with a blank approximately 55 mm x 55 mm x 300 mm. This is turned to approximately 50 mm round. I mark it cut 15 mm discs and burn with a piece of laminex. This allows the discs to be held in the chuck without leaving jaw marks. The discs are cut off with the band saw mounted in the chuck and finished off on both sides. Remove from the lathe and drill 3 mm deep holes for the inlays. These can be any size or pattern you like or contrasting timber or old coins on both sides. If inlays overlap, you drill first hole, glue in the inlay, let dry and then put in the next insert and so on. Rechuck, face off and polish. Put on the key chain and clip. |
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Salt and Pepper Grinders I find it a challenge to have an identical pair, and when completed, very satisfying. This pair have been made from Sassafras |
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When turning this sort of thing, I am not very artistic. I pick up a piece of wood. A small branch or a bit of wood off the floor - no special size or length. I put it in the lathe and I think the wood tells me what to do. These two have been made from Radiata Pine qnd then marbled with a product called Marble Magic. You float this paint on top of water, three or four colours. Swirl it around and dip the articles in. Blow paint from around the article and lift out. It comes out touch dry. Project finished! |
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This vase has been made from a cross arm from an old power pole 10 cm 10 cm x 35 cm. I first drill a 25 mm hole in the top about 15 mm deep. I then insert a good tight fitting spigot into the hole and mark the centre. It is then mounted in the lathe spigot end to the tail stock and turned. The position of the bolt hole determined the shaping of the top. It is finished with sanding sealer and wax. |
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As you can see, I like leaving a natural look. These two bowls have been made from the same Blackwood log cut in half. One piece was turned the usual way and the other the reverse - leaving a natural edge. |
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A small lidded container from Blackwood, Cyprus base and lid. The weed pot has been turned off centre. It was made from Camphor Laurel following the same principles. |