Warning: Information in this document is from 2002. Please check with suppliers for latest pricing.
TIGER TIPS,
Building a Timber Boat Ron Wiggins:
This contribution is from Ron Wiggins. Ron is a carpentry teacher and has been in the Association for a decade. He has sailed his own timber boat during that period and been in the top ten many times. He is a heavy weather expert. He is currently building a new boat for himself. His son Mark sails a foam sandwich boat and I believe that his twin daughters are now showing some interest in PT sailing.
PT plans are purchased through Spilpac p/c in S.A. for $67.00. PH 08 82767444 or FAX 82776649.The plans were drawn by Ron Given back in June 1980 and have had minimal up-dates since. It could be argued that to build from the plans today would produce an outdated boat. (You need however to purchase plans to obtain a sail number). Whilst the overall shape hasn't really changed many methods/trends and cosmetic changes are current.
Should you intend to build contact a committee member first who will be able to bring you up to speed with the latest trends. For those who intend to build keep a copy of the sheet layout (in this Newsletter) which are not included with the plans. Most boats are built with vertical ply instead of horizontal (as per plans), this creates a stiffer boat but can produce ripples if internal stringers or foam sub-decks are not included. Your ply needs to be scarfed into a panel 4.8x4.8. Marine Timbers in Mulgrave provide this service. The hardest part for you is to transport it. You'll need a tray truck or they can deliver.
Marine timbers 95460311
You need to buy Gaboon Ply 5/2.4M x 1.2M @ $59.Ea weighing approx 5kg.
It will need Scarfing $38 total.
Boat Building Tips Continued from last issue
If you've done your figures and decided that the only way to get a good boat (that you can afford), is to build one yourself the first step is building a jig. But before you bounce into it, a lot of time, effort and money will be spent in constructing such a jig. Ask around, ring a committee member or simply place an advert in the PTP newsletter asking for a loan of their jig. There is many hanging in garages collecting dust. Make sure PT`s have been measured from the jig. Once you have the jig refer to last months building tip and you're underway.
NB A new timber boat should cost between $4000 to $5000 depending on whether your making your own foils and rudder boxes or buying professional built ones. Actual breakdown costs will be available in a later edition
If you require any further information, ring Ron PH 59810734
Boat Building Tips Continued from last issue
So you picked up your jig, got your ply spliced and are geared to go. Hopefully you were able to pick up some light ply, under 5kg,it will make it easier later.
Sheet 1 of the plans has to do with the making of the jig so we`ll give it a miss. What I intend to do is highlight variations to the plans, things to do and not to do and hopefully prevent future builders from making the same mistakes that I've made. Lets start with sheet 2 of 2. If you're lucky your jig will have patterns for the hulls
Please refer to previous newsletter for layout. Fixing the plywood to the jig with wooden blocks. Try using 12mm heavy duty staples, fixing every 50mm, quicker and more accurate.
After planing and fitting one side and bottom, ease ply away from the jig( do not remove), use cut up strips of plastic shopping bags and slip in between the the ply and jig to prevent glue sticking to the jig.
1st night you should have one half of one hull fitted &glued.
2nd night plane back keel and fitt ply to other and glue up.
3rd night glue gunwhale(no nails) you'll need a heep of clamps.
Make sure to allow your ply to protrude past the gunwale so that you can router it back once off the jig. Set your router to 1mm and router the keel 25mm on each side and tape with 50mm fibreglass tape. You shouldn't add much weight as you are removing ply and replacing it with cloth, resin and filler. You may find you will need to use dynal tape at the bow as the fibreglass tape will not bend successfully around the shape radius. Wet through but keep it fairly dry as too wet will allow the tape to lift off the timber. Once dry lever the staples off remove the clamps and ease the hull off the jig. The next hull can commence immediately so that with a couple of hours work each night for a week will have you with both hulls off the jig.
Note there is no need for any screws, or brass nails of any type to be used permanently or temporarily. When gluing in transom use one thickness of ply instead of two with a small timber rail top and bottom to pick up the pintle bolts.
No tape required on any internal joins. A small fillet of filler & epoxy gives greater strength at keel, chines and transom joins. Make sure you don't put it on too heavy as it will add weight. External chines can be tape free as well
BIG TIP make sure your hand plane is nice and sharp as it makes it a lot easier. More next month.
If you require any further information, ring Ron PH 59810734
Boat Building TipsContinued from last issue
This months tip leaves the actual construction for just a moment and looks at the total costs as promised in an earlier addition.
You must remember that these are a guide only and prices very greatly depending on how much you buy off the professionals and how much you make yourself.
BREAKDOWN
Platform complete $1423
Plans $67
Mast fitted out by you $450 estimated
Sail and battens $1120
Shop around, prices vary between lofts
Fittings[15% discount given] $1180
Once again put in one big order and you get a reasonable amount off .
Foils[carbon] ,rudder boxes anodised $1260
(Professionally built)
Total $5500
Add trolley wide wheels, fibreglass shells $200
Total Price $5700
So there it is makes those competitive boats around the $2500 to $3500 look cheap!.
The prices above are for timber hulls made yourself {the cheap part]
the platform includes painted hulls, beams, trampoline, chainplates, hatches, dolphin striker, alum jumper strap. tramp support tube, and moulded traveller track in the rear beam.
Remember the ply only costs about $333 to buy.
But hang on there's more what about the compass, carry bags for the new boards, anodised spares of alum, new life jacket and suddenly your up for an extra $500.
By the way Collins Anodic Treatment in Blackburn will anodise small pieces and small runs for a minimum of $90. A set of alum boxes only would probably only set you back about $13. A better idea than powder coating which lifts once the salt water gets underneath.
Ron Wiggins
Boat Building Tips Continued from last issue
For those new to the VPTCA here is a list I`ve compiled of current suppliers. Of course there will be others you can source out yourself. If the same company appears more than once the phone details will be provided one time only.
Alum Rudder Boxes
Mal Willis Ballarrat 03 53356251
Alum Sections
Capral Various stores
Anodising
Collins Anodic Blackburn 98774780
Beams
The VPTCA has beams in stock Click here to goto the marketplace and view the add
Booms
Advertise for a broken mast section in TPTP
Books
Tuning Manual VPTCA
Catamaran racing in the 90`s Sports Books
Ron Wiggins 59810734
Foils
Larry Fay Dandenong 97921227
Hyperfoils John Pinkerton NSW 02 42294053
F/glass Supplies
One stop Plastics Bentleigh 95792044
Marine Timbers Mulgrave� 95460311
Foam for Bulkheads
One Stop Plastics
Larry Fay
F/glass Trolley Profiles
Fittings & Rigging
The Yacht Shop Frankston 97866266
Yacht Chandlers
Insurance
Tudor Berwick David Cooper 97073033
Jumper Straps
Alum High Tensile Capral various
SS Ewen McArthur NSWPTCA 02 69226205
Mast Bases and Boom Plugs
Keith Deed Ringwood 98797816
Masts
Goodall Sails USA section Bendigo 54436910
Pick up in Clayton Access Hire 9547 7700, 59 Garden Rd, Clayton
Older Sections try Bob Keeley Marine Moorabbin
Paint 2 pack
Rhino Bayswater 97291344
Yacht Chandlers
Ply
Marine Timbers
Rudder Pintles
Vic Scholes Latrobe Valley 03 51696295
Yacht Chandlers
Sliding Goosenecks, halyard locks, ss special fittings
Vic Scholes
Sails, tramps,toe straps,board covers
Goodall
Hooper Sth Melb 96904831
Irwin 95557328
SS Nuts & Bolts
Universal Bolts Dandenong and Bayswater Also try other bolt supplies and Ships Chandlers
Boat Building Tips
Continued from last issue Ron Wiggins
Since we left the building side of things I've covered costing and suppliers of materials and fittings. I left one item off the list in the last issue
F/glass Repairs
Beach Bum Anne West McCrae 59863462
Larry Fay Dandenong
Various boat repairers
Anyway back to the boat building.
If you remember back in September we had popped both hulls off the jig and had glued in our sterns. But don't forget we used vertical ply to the hulls not horizontal as per plans [gives a stiffer hull].
When planing down your ply to the gunwales don't get too excited and plane into the gunwale producing hollows. At all three beam positions use winding sticks to make sure there is no twist between these points. For final adjustment planing and sanding can be completed after the internal stiffeners and beam pads are fitted. More on this later.
As far as fitting your centrecase I made mine slightly thinner than the plan and to locate its exact position mark the position on the bottom of the keel drill a small hole through and push a nail through from� the outside. This locates its exact position on the inside. Coat inside hull with three to four coats of epoxy timber guard or similar this provides protection from water entry.
As far as beam pads are concerned forget the ones in the plan. Try 42 x 19 cut to length the same as the width of a standard beam pad. Join them together at one end with 19 x 19 forming an E section without the middle piece, once glued to the hulls cut ply triangular fillets which glue to the exposed end of the 42 x 19 and glue down the side of the hull. This can be done to the 4 exposed ends of the beams. This eliminates all the fibre glass cloths and resins around the beam pad and inside the hull. At the other end of the beam pad I have foam bulk heads fitted to the shape of the hull. Before gluing cut a small portion out at the keel to allow air and any water to flow through. Once fitted glue to the hull on both sides and to the 19 x 19 stringer at the beam pad. You must make sure not to force the foam into position as it can create a rib or bulge in your hull. The front beam at station 2 is made up of 19 x 19 glued to a 30 ml thick foam bulk head. The foam for the main beams was purchased off Larry Lay and it was 8mm thick glassed both sides. All the remaining foam throughout the boat was 30 mm blue styro foam from One Stop Plastics. This foam can be successfully glued with the epoxy glues. If you can't picture these bulk heads I have photos or give me a call and I'll see if I can explain them a bit more clearly. So all my beam pads have no screws, nails, fibre glass, or tape. They are all glued with bote cote epoxy and filler at every join.� Between station 2 and the main beam I have a styrofoam sub deck approx. half way down. Between the bow and station 2 another sub deck 1/2 way down fitted and glued to all services.� From station 2 right through to the rear beam on both sides of each hull I have ply stringers 20 mm wide glued and filleted to the shape of the hull midway down. To get the right shape lengths of timber 45 x 35 are shaped to the jig profile. With extra deep clamps an inner and outer profile are clamped into place. The 20 mm ply stringer is pushed into shape and stapled to the timber. A bote cote glue fillet is spread along the join. Once set the staples are removed and the ply stringer retains the shape. Between station 2 and the main beam the foam sub deck is glued to this ply stringer as well as all edges against the ply and other bulk heads. To complete the bulk heads I have a 1/2 height foam bulk head at the bottom and rear of the centrecase, preventing any upward flex. Instead of a piece of timber at each chain plate I glued several pieces of ply together.� I believe Garry Williams used ply and a piece of aluminium at the station 2 chain plate. The method just covered makes for a very stiff boat. Try my hulls for flex next time you walk past. Next issue we look at Honey Comb decks and method of fixing decks.
Due to strong interest in building PTs this winter we now have access to 2 jigs. There will be a hire charge applicable to ensure any damage is repaired and the owners get a little for all their hard work. Contact Ron Wiggins for further details. Should any members have good ideas that we can use please contact the writer Ron Wiggins
If you require any further information, ring Ron PH 59810734
Boat Building Tips
Continued from last issue Ron Wiggins
What great news there looks like being 6to 8 new plywood PTs being built this winter. So watch out you plastic boats. We currently have 2 jigs available to PT members for hire. You will need to pay the association $100.00 being 1 month's hire at $ 40.00 and a refundable bond on good return of the jig of $60.00. The jigs are available through Rick Stout on 0407 054944 or Peter Anderson on 97725434.They can be picked up from Bangholme near Springvale or McCrae.
Continuing on from last month the gunwales need to be planed down flat without hollows, bumps and to a fair curve. Winding sticks need to be set up at each beam station for sighting to make sure their is no twist in the deck which in turn puts a twist in the hulls. To do this the hulls must be supported in a cradle keeping them firm. I drew a vertical line at the stern and checked that when the line was plumb the beam pads were level. Once I was satisfied I commenced strengthening under the deck between the front and rear beam. The plans show a strengthening rib approx. 50x12 attached each side of the centrecase running fore and aft. I varied this by using the offcuts of stryofoam 70mm deep x 30mm thick front and rear of the centrecase at right angles or across the hull flush with the deck [before actually gluing I ran a string line down the centreline of the boat and positioned the case central].
One cedar rib 20x12 was glued to the side of the case running from the front through to the rear pad. A small cedar offcut was glued between the foam ribs and onto the other side of the centrecase.
On the outer deck 2 full length ribs were spread evenly. On the inside deck we have a short glued to the centrecase and a full rib centred so that the distance between a foam and cedar rib is no more than 100mm apart. As each stringer ran through a foam rib the rib was checked out to suit the cedar and glued together with Boat Cote epoxy glue which was compatible to the foam.
The end result was a honeycomb effect under the deck giving solid glue points every 100mm. I've done this because of my weight and other peoples carelessness. [Remember Pinko over in New Zealand when we swapped boats and you punctured my decks]. Before gluing, a straight edge must be run over the surface area to make sure any high points are planed or sanded down. Having pre-spliced all your joins for the deck I glued them up into a full deck sheet cut roughly to shape.
You will need heaps of clamps and I mean heaps or something weighty to hold them down. Small "G" clamps or spring-loaded clamps are suitable.
After spreading the epoxy glue over all the surface area, the trick here is not to use all light weight clamps on one side and say bricks on the other side. My suggestion is to balance up each side of the hull with similar clamp weights. If you run short as I did and start using boxes of nails etc. you could end up with a very minor twist in the hull about the thickness of a lid from an ice-cream bucket. You will need quite a few weights for keeping the pressure on the honeycomb area as this cannot be accessed by clamps.
So summing up whatever clamp weight is used at a particular point must be matched up with similar clamp weight on the opposite gunwale. It is difficult to check for wind at this stage with all the clamps and weights on board. Next day remove weights and run a bull nosed router around the gunwale up to the bum roll area.
The timber for the bum roll can be glued to the gunwale and plywood that has been planed flush at this point. Long pipe clamps can be used to hold the timber in position across the deck. Drill a hole in the centre of the deck in the centrecase and run the router around again. PRESTO suddenly it looks like a boat.
There is just one more thing to decide, where you are going to fit your front hatch cover. When mine was positioned near the tramp up near the front beam I continually broke through the hatch. This time I positioned the hatch more towards the outside gunwale so that when I move forward I won't sit on the hatch. You will need to box out your 20 x 10 ribs around your hatch position do not just cut them out as it weakens this area of the deck. Mind you this has to be decided before the deck is glued on.
To complete the bum roll shape for comfort. I then made a jig up for the router to allow a concave shape to be routed underneath the gunwale all round. This reduced weight and makes it very easy to carry.
Remember think weight at all stages. The VPTCA has recently purchased brand new scales and you should be able to keep tab on all your weights as you go. Keep records and in the future edition we will be able to substitute your weights into these notes so that people will know what the weight should be at particular stages to obtain a minimum weight boat. For resale and performance a minimum weight boat is paramount.
Some recent good news is that gaboon ply from Marine Timbers has dropped to $50.00 a sheet down from $65.00. So get in quick before the GST hits.
Ron Wiggins
