Alpine National Park
formally
Wonnangatta-Moroka National Park

9 June 1998

1. SYNOPSIS

The aim of this report is to give an overview of the Wonnangatta - Moroka National Park, and the Wonnangatta Valley. It outlines where it is; its history; how to get there and its recreational appeal for visitors to the area.

 

2. INTRODUCTION

In the heart of the Victorian Alps, straddling the Great Dividing Range lies the Wonnangatta - Moroka National Park. With an area of 107,000ha it is situated in Victoria's Alpine National Park.

Situated 200km north east of Melbourne, lying within the boundaries of three municipalities, being the Shires of Maffra, Bright and Avon, it provides unlimited adventure to bushwalkers, ski-tourers, four wheel drivers, fishermen, and others with a love for the high country. The area contains interest to the bird watcher, botanist, photographer, artist and historian alike. Situated in the east of the National Park is the Wonnangatta Valley. This area has a uniqueness of its own, both in vegetation and history.

The purpose of this report is to create an awareness of this magnificent area to those who may be both unaware of its existence and its beauty. It is a remote part of Victoria which must be preserved for future generations to enjoy as well as our own.

 

The Wonnangatta Valley is completely surrounded by forbidden mountains and is only accessible to the adventurous who penetrate the tangled ranges guarding the valley. Even so, it was not always uninhabited.

3. HISTORICAL SETTING

Aboriginal people belonging to a group of tribes known as the Kurnai would have had cultural associations with the lands of the valley, and utilized it in the warmer months. Little evidence actually remains of their occupation, and only three Aboriginal archaeological sites have been recorded throughout the entire Wonnangatta - Moroka National Park.

In the mid 1800s Europeans sought gold within the National Park. However, the Wonnangatta Valley was first visited by explorer Alfred Howitt in around 1860, and was soon settled and a cattle station established. The homestead was nestled between the Wonnangatta River and Conglomerate Creek with views overlooking much of the Valley.

In 1866 Wonnangatta Station was acquired by William Bryce who moved in with his family. They extended the homestead with all supplies being packed in by horseback from Dargo over tortuous mountain tracks. Two of Bryce's ten children lie buried in the small family cemetery, as does his wife Annie who died in 1914. About this time the station was sold again.

The Wonnangatta Cemetery

The new owners installed a manager, John Barclay, who lived alone in the isolated homestead. In December 1917, he engaged John Bamford to cook and do odd jobs. In January 1918 after the visiting mailman noticed and reported no sign of life on the homestead Barclay's body was discovered partly buried in the nearby creek - he had been shot and had his head severed. There was not a trace of Bamford. In November 1918 the body of Bamford was discovered buried under a pile of logs and rocks in the vicinity of Howitt Hut, about 20km from Wonnangatta Station. He too had been shot. The circumstances surrounding how these men died remains unsolved; the answer will never be known and the story leaves an air of mystery hanging over the Wonnangatta Valley.

In 1934 the station property was sold yet again, this time to Alexander Guy who lived there for many years and built Guy's Hut in 1940 (a mountain cattleman hut still in use today). The historic old homestead was destroyed by fire in 1957, the Guy family having previously moved away.

In 1970 the property was purchased by Bob Gilder, who took ownership of the freehold properties in the Wonnangatta Valley and Guy's Hut on Bryce's Plain.

In 1991 the Wonnangatta Station was purchased by the Victorian Government, and are the owners to this present day.

The lands of the Wonnangatta Station were used for beef production in conjunction with surrounding licensed grazing areas. When the Victorian Government purchased the property in 1991, they also introduced legislation prohibiting grazing of cattle within the Valley.

 

4. PRESENT SETTING

After the fire of 1957 all that remains of the old homestead is the crumbled stone chimney. There are relics of machinery to be found within the confines of the old post and rail fences and exotic trees. The cemetery has been restored by the "Friends of Wonnangatta Society", and is easily observed by visitors to the area. The Wonnangatta Valley offers excellent sites for camping along the Wonnangatta River. Camping is prohibited within the confines of the Homestead site.

 

5. RECREATION

5.1 Bushwalking

The Wonnangatta Valley is accessible by bushwalkers throughout the year, with many walks around the National Park being published for access to all. The Wonnangatta Valley with the Wonnangatta River running through is a very popular resting-place for the enthusiast walker.

5.2 Ski-touring

During winter heavy snowfalls blanket the entire Wonnangatta - Moroka National Park, with the Wonnangatta Valley being accessible to the ski - touring enthusiast. For those who venture into the area during winter not only will they experience the challenges of the wild, but also the solitude of the mountains.

5.3 Trail Riding

The Wonnangatta Valley is a suitable area for trail riding, with the National Parks Service allowing this pastime, but requesting conditions regarding the tethering of horses and general camping rules be observed.

5.4 Driving and Road Access

Vehicle access to the Park is provided by a network of unsealed forestry roads. Access to the Wonnangatta Valley is by rough, deeply rutted tracks which could not be driven by anything other than a four wheel drive vehicle, as the ground clearance in many areas is impassible.

The National Parks Service closes access to the Wonnangatta Valley from the week after Queen's Birthday holiday in June to the last week in October. The tablelands become snow covered, and very wet thus making visibility of the road surface (and deep ruts) impossible and impassible. A vehicle would become stuck or break down very easily thus creating dire consequences for the motorist. This situation also creates damage to tracks and erosion to the surrounding areas.

During the November to June period motorists are permitted to enter the Valley floor, but are restricted to the tracks as marked. This will minimize the amount of natural vegetation being destroyed.

The Wonnangatta Valley Floor

5.5 Hunting

Sambar deer are hunted throughout the Wonnangatta Valley.

5.6 Fishing

The Wonnangatta and Moroka Rivers and a number of other small alpine streams provide good trout angling for the fishing enthusiast

6. VEGETATION

Plant Life in the Wonnangatta - Moroka National Park is profuse and varied; over 1300 indigenous species include 43 eucalypts, 38 wattles and 96 orchids.

The Wonnangatta Valley, during the time of its habitation saw the introduction of exotic trees which still today produce crops in the appropriate season. The Valley provides blackberries, raspberries, apples, pears, cherries, mushrooms and chestnuts which the visiting camper can enjoy.

Since 1989 a controlling programme has been in place to control a variety of noxious weed species, particularly Blackberry, Sweet Briar and Hawthorn.

 

7. WILDLIFE

The wide range of vegetation provide habitat for a diverse fauna. The animal life both native and introduced is nearly all nocturnal in habit. Large creatures in and around the park include the common wombat kangaroo and smaller wallabies. Featured amongst the lesser animals are rat, possum, echidna, platypus, and water rat. Introduced species include sambar deer, rabbit, fox and wild dog.

Birdlife is prolific with large numbers of species in the alps. Some of the common species include crimson rosella, kookaburra, king parrot, lyrebird and emu. The wedge tail eagle is a common sight soaring high above crags and swooping across the valley.

Within the rivers and streams live numerous fish including the introduced trout.

 

8. CONCLUSION

The Wonnangatta Valley is a magnificent area to visit within Victoria's Alpine National Park. It offers the visitor beautiful countryside, solitude, history, animal and bird wildlife, bushwalking, ski-touring, four-wheel driving, fishing, and hunting. If the opportunity ever arises to visit this breathtaking area then it should not be missed.

 

9. BIBLIOGRAPHY

Examples of Plant Life in the area.