Inlay 1: An Open Mind

by Nicky Schonkala

Now seems an appropriate time to write this article. I am sitting at the Blackwood St. Gallery at the Meat Market Craft Centre in Melbourne, Australia, minding an exhibition of my current work and that of a fellow textile artist. The response from people visiting the gallery has been very encouraging. Sales have been good. But is there a place for handweaving today?

Last year I travelled in the USA and Europe attending weaving workshops and conferences. I was thrilled at the enthusiastic and positive "vibes" at such gatherings. In America particularly there seemed to be weavers everywhere and the associated newsletters, journals, supply outlets and schools. While in Portland, Oregon for example I stumbled quite accidentally upon "Ruthie's Weaving Studio and School" nestled quietly in a residential area. This was a well established and large studio filled with floor looms. It catered to keen members of the community who wished to learn weaving on a part time basis. The syllabus was not structured - students were able to weave whatever they wished, with guidance from the experienced teachers and support of fellow students. There was apparently a four year waiting list of eager students! That reflects the interest in handweaving in Portland, Oregon - a sample of America.

In Europe I visited towns that had special outlets for the sale of handwoven goods. Lubeck in Germany for example, had a very strong textile history and the local council had recently initiated projects to encourage weavers to establish studios there. What a great idea!

But is this only feasible in countries with a large population? Is there proportionally the same interest in hand weaving in Australia, but not as obvious because of the smaller numbers? If this is the case, there must also be a proportionate number of interested buyers of textiles, informed and aware, who recognise the quality and speciality of a well designed and well made handwoven piece. I'm sure that there are people who willingly spend hundreds or thousands on designer label clothing because it is unique and (hopefully) well made. Hand weavers need to target these people and educate them as to the quality and beauty of handwoven products.

The possibilities available by extending handweaving, and going beyond accepted forms, should also be promoted. These possibilities are endless. Why limit ourselves to "only handspun" or "commercial warp but hand spun weft" etc. Handweaving can include absolutely anything as warp and weft as long as the two are interlaced. I am currently experimenting with weaving copper wire, for lustrous effects in clothing (it can be sewn and washed) and also for sculptural effects. While this may not appeal to everyone, it opens up the mind to what is possible with handweaving and may lead to discoveries or opportunities not considered before. Why limit or label handweaving according to the materials used? This must surely limit the numbers of people interested in handweaving and possibly discourage new weavers. There should be no limits! This is perhaps not a new idea to many handweavers: those busily working away in their studio creating amazing pieces and satisfying a niche market. I am probably preaching to the converted.

My concern is that the face of handweaving presented to the general public is not necessarily representative of what is possible. Do we place too many restrictions on what is accepted (and sold) as handweaving? Where do we draw the line between parameters for the sake of guidance, and rules that are too restrictive?

Experiment with new materials and techniques, and accept work that shows experimentation. If a creative product is well known and aesthetically pleasing, it will still show handweaving in a favourable light. This should be the main priority, rather than "Did you spin the yarn, with wool from your hand shorn sheep, after raising the sheep from a lamb, which you suckled at your own breast....etc." (forgive my exaggeration to make a point). While there is a place for some specialty work such as this, handweaving offers much broader options, and should be promoted in this way. Such an approach could increase the appeal and recognition of handweaving among the general public, fashion and interior designers, and cloth manufacturers. To ensure the acceptance of handweaving by craft shops, boutiques and galleries (and who knows where else?) of the future, it seems important now to keep an open mind.


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