Video (Part 1) HERE (you will need to accept Vividas installation)
Video (Part 2) HERE (wmv draft)
Picture Gallery HERE
Left Tulla about 7am. Maybe it was the recent landing crash in Jogjakarta but from the time one passenger boarded wearing swimming goggles, the mood on board the Garuda flight was a little weird. Breakfast was served about two hours into the flight and most orders seemed to be either Bintangs or Bourbons. Soon after, half the passengers were out of their seats, standing around drinking. The cabin crew retreated to their small area and were reduced to being bar staff as passenger would walk up and order drinks (in rounds). As the plane touched down in Denpasar, there was a loud, but largely Bronx cheer. It was 1pm local time.
With a couple of hours to kill in transit before a short flight to Jakarta, I changed money. The airport changer made three attempts to rip me off. First she typed in the wrong figure into her calculator – I corrected her. Then she ‘miscounted’ the notes as she handed them to me. Finally, as I was counting at the desk she fanned herself and in doing so blew two of my notes onto the floor. I noticed the fanning but thought nothing of it. I only saw the notes at my feet as I went to walk away. I then noticed a couple of very disappointed security guards nearby.
Jakarta was as always. Memories hadn’t changed at all, but the Cipta hotel was a cut above Tator or Karya.
Had a good night’s sleep and next day fly/drive to the losmen.
Day 1
6’ (bigger early)
No wind all day. Glassy
Losmen staff changes. Mumu gone (headstrong), Rinal moved from title (creaming) to contract driver. Dian from manager (soft) back to maintenance. His pregnant. Adi, Yudi, Ida and Pri still around. Putra thereabout too, but too big to climb a coconut tree.
New staff: Tami (Bali) to manager, Pida (Bali too), Selma (local) chef,
As for tourists, very few: Deano (Joe Gray’s mate) and Jeff from US. Olivier and Freda from Guadeloupe.
In the water: Maximum 8 out. Personally it was a day of paddling.
Kiwis arrive late arvo:- Spud (56), Frosty (42) and Bruce (42).
Day 2
8’
Generally no wind, but a late arvo northerly squall with five water spouts.
Big start for the Kiwis, though their positive attitudes are admirable.
I spent much of the day chatting with Stuart and Nev – very good.
An evening of duty free Jim Beams and some welcome Hawaiian aloha.
Making friends fast.
Day 3
6’ No wind, excellent all day. Had my first real long session in a couple of years.
Sebastian and Aaron arrive with Canadian Club. Big evening – up til 9:30!
Note Spud likes a drink too. New best mate.
Day 4
8’ new swell, strong and straight. No wind. Sheet glass all day.
Hangover start – perch at the corner and witness Deano get the longest deepest backhand tube I’ve seen. Maximum 4 out. Countless empty, perfect waves. Picked off a few.
Losmen hosts local tourism event (all health care workers in the area) in the arvo. 500+ people. Frosty’s hot on the dance floor. The rest of us generally retreat to the surf.
Day 5
10-12’
No-one on point all day. 10 at each break in town. Surfed Lances left and right in the evening. Little more that a wetting.
Evening with Deano, Jeff, Julie and Eric – dumbstruck.
Day 6
Immeasurably big – guessing 20’+. No-one even considers it.
Deck damage (two support poles washed away). Fence gone, chair gone,
Town 6’+ and heavy as. LH - massive sucking off the reef. RH- too much debris to surf. Some closeouts across the bay.
Day 7
10+
Town RH 4’, hollow and good. Some issues with a couple of hungry yanks, but minimal compared to the aura of such a special place.
Surfed the point in the arvo. Jumped off the reef and got washed 500m down. Paddled out and got hit again. Another full reef paddle. Got two thrilling rides. Took the second one in – rooted.
Day 8
8-6’
Town early with Nana. First surf of trip which I really enjoyed. 3’ just us out. Relaxing and fun.
Surfed the point later and spoke to one of the previous day’s sepos. Glad to have done so. No issues – and a real change in approach noted.
Late arvo on the point with Olivier. It was our last surf together and he gave me a beaut wave. It was the final day for Freda and him, and the farewell was emotional. A lovely pair, great company for all.
Comment:
No issues with either tides (biggest range of year) or winds so far. Apart from size issues, the point has always been surfable. Pre-trade season, the winds have been excellent and but for brief northerly squalls that came with rain, the sea has been generally glassy all day.
The big swell appears to have been a once in a decade event, not unlike SW Java 97. One result was that the reef had become covered in crushed coral/sand. This makes it excellent for traversing. Booties now almost optional. For the rest of the trip I access the surf by walking straight out from the deck and jumping off at the corner – too easy.
Rumour is Newcastle crew plan to build 6 huts. Also a Japanese has land between Ombak Indah and the Sepos. Looks like another hut to go up there.
Jules (ex maintenance) now has his own losmen down the road too.
Food at the Losmen is markedly improved. Heaps of variety and flavour.
Day 9
6’
Out early with Deano and Jeff. Best surf so far. Conditions perfect.
Second surf with Kiwis – also excellent. All get heaps of good waves.
Third surf after lunch until exhaustion.
Entire day spent at corner store. Couldn’t ask for more.
Gado-Gado for dinner. Selma, what a cook!
Deano and Jeff depart – Like all, they’d been great company and a catch up next year is on the cards.
Slept 8pm-5:30am – so sound. Love the fan.
Day 10
6’
Perfect at dawn. Out with the Kiwis. Two tubes to start. No-one around all day. Maximum 4 out at a time. Excellent, empty waves pour through all day.
11am the first trade came through – no issue as it was light and mostly offshore.
3pm Northerly rain squall
4:30 glass off. Last hour of the day absolutely sensational. Surfed until dark, Julia broke a board. Best wave of trip this evening – sheet glass, long, so long, jelly legs finish.
Day 11
6-4’
Dawn again with the Kiwis. A wonderful start to the day.
Quite crowed about breakfast time – maybe 12 out
Went to Way Jambu – looking good as always.
Sate gambing on the way home.
Trade again after luch. The corner remained glassy. Surfed with Eric, Julia and Roman. 3hrs. Never stopped.
Day 12
4’
Dawn as per. Got the call from the Kiwis. Four of us out early. Dropping swell but still nice. Back out again immediately after breakfast. And then again after lunch. Fun with Eric and Julia.
Got the Freeline board working today – no turning back.
Day 13
2’
Kiwis and Eric to the beachies. Julia and me left to the corner. All good, clean fun from dawn until lunch. Then another 3hrs early arvo. Three at a time in the water all day.
Another great evening, beers on Eric.
Day 14
4-6’
Two surfs by 11am, mainly with Bruce and Spud. Mellow and real enjoyable.
Massage after lunch – torture (but effective).
Others surfed Way Jambu PM. I hung out at the corner store.
Day 15
4’
Last full day.
Surfed all AM. Got 20 waves. Finally exited totally satisfied with trip. Just so much improvement in body and mind. Best I've felt in ages. Couldn’t ask for more.
Started the wrap up after lunch.
Presentation to staff – think they were stoked.
Tami’s birthday that night. More drinks from Julia and Eric. Dancing the shuffle, with Nana strutting his stuff
3am out. 6hrs to Banda Lampung, 2hrs transit (no t-shirts - sorry kids), 30mins to Jakarta, 6hrs transit (same old bar), 1hr to Denpassar, more transit (reacquainted myself with the money changer, 6hrs to Tulla. All up about 24hrs door to door.
Final Comment:
Planning Sumatra this year was taxing. Mates dropped out left right and centre. Finally I sought help from Stuart at Freeline and he came up with good goods. I'll do the same in 08 if I can, no issues.
There weren't many at the Losmen, but without exception they were great. Stu and Nev were there - supportive, good company and A1 for chats. Deano ('I like to share' - thanks mate) and thoughtful Jeff. The Swiss team, Andi, Bene and Roman - all good company. The Kwassis, Aaron and Sebo - generous in the water and also with their duty free. The Guadeloupeans, Olivier and Freda, giving away waves and deserving of good karma. Eric and Julia - just pure aloha. And finally Spud, Frosty and Bruce with whom I shared the premium package, some beaut dawn patrols, and undoubtably a lifetime of memories.