Finding or Building your Own Pack Saddle.

A collection of information about finding or building your own pack saddle.
Contributed by Graham Crossley - October 2003

Introduction
One of the more difficult hurdles to overcome in preparing for a horse trek down the BNT is outfitting yourself with a pack saddle.

This note is intended to assist you to either find a pack saddle or to make one for yourself. It isn't an exhaustive examination of the subject but is the result of my research when faced with the desire to go trekking but having no pack saddle. I will include information that is probably considered obvious to experienced packers because it wasn't obvious to me when I got interested in packing. The information in this article is geared to the local Australian situation.

Finding A Pack Saddle
You have basically two options here - new or second hand.

New Pack Saddles
There are a number of saddlers still making pack saddles. You might start by asking your local saddler or by trying one of the saddlers listed at the end of the article who are known to make pack saddles. A new pack saddle is an investment and if looked after should last a lifetime. It will cost approximately the same as a quality hand made Australian Stock saddle.

Another option is to import one from overseas. North America has a thriving industry supplying packing gear to recreational and professional packers. An easy way to locate these suppliers is to use an Internet search engine such as Google and search on "Pack Saddle" or "Pack Box". The exchange rate can make this an expensive exercise. Canadian suppliers work out cheaper than US suppliers due to a better exchange rate. See contact details at the end of the article.

Second Hand Pack Saddles
Second hand pack saddles can be difficult to locate as they aren't a common item these days.

There are two ways you can track one down.

1. You find it through the BNT newsletter "Tracks", clearing sales and auctions in rural newspapers such as "The Land" or
   
2. Have it find you by advertising "Pack Saddle Wanted ..." in the same sorts of publications. This can be a very effective way to find a second hand pack saddle.

Restoring Leather
Leather can be restored if not too far gone but no amount of conditioner will restore it if beyond redemption. There are many different leather conditioners on the market but be aware that some of them if used in excess will turn the leather dark and limp and ruin it. Neetsfoot oil or products based on it are not recommended by me for this reason.

Size Of Pack Saddles
The size of the saddle should also match the horse (or donkey) you intend to use the saddle with. Some pack saddles were used in droving plants on draught or half-draft horses and sized appropriately. They are very big and heavy for the horses most trekkers use today.

Making Your Own Pack Saddle
I decided that if the old timers could make one in an outback station so could I in my home. I was also prepared to trade my labour for the savings I'd make on a commercial pack saddle and end up with a brand new pack saddle and a whole pile of skills to boot. Additionally, I wanted a few special features on my pack saddles and building it myself would allow me to incorporate them whilst giving me the skills to tackle any repairs that might be needed on the trail.

Getting Started
The hardest part about building your own pack saddle is gathering the information and having the courage to have a go. Having built two pack saddles, I can assure you that there really isn't anything difficult about making one but it will take some time and dedication to the task. Another thing that can be daunting and off putting is the thought of how to solve the problems that you will be faced with when building your own pack saddle (fear of the unknown). Let me encourage you by saying that you only have to solve one problem at a time and the only problem that matters is the one in front of you. Reduced to this and solved as they arise, the task becomes easy and you gain skills as you go. Good resource material (books or someone with experience) and a "can do" attitude will solve all problems.

Building Your Own
The first thing is to decide on a design that will suit your needs. It is a good help if you can study a pack saddle and talk to it's owner about what works for that person. Take along a tape measure, note book and a camera. Make plenty of sketches and get all the basic measurements such as size of pads, thickness of stuffing at different points, harness attachment points, size of tree & bars etc.

I decided on a Swivel Tree design similar to the pack saddles used by the Australian Army. These have stood the test of difficult use with many second hand ones being used on Australian properties. Our horses vary in size and shape a fair bit so a swivel tree design is more adaptable. (A common piece of advice from experienced Trekkers is to have horses all the same size and shape so that riding and pack saddles are interchangeable between horses with no problems).

As a pack saddle is likely to have a fair exposure to the elements or to spend time in storage between treks, I decided that all metalwork, nuts, bolts and buckles would be stainless steel to prevent rusting. The additional cost is very small when compared to the cost of a new pack saddle and you will end up with a quality product. A pet gripe of mine is good quality gear ruined by cheap rusting buckles. Boat chandlers (suppliers) are a good place to find bits and pieces such as rings and "Dees" (all in marine grade type 316 stainless steel). Stainless steel buckles are very hard to find so another alternative is to have your arch bars, bolts etc in stainless steel and use brass buckles

Resource Books
There may be others, however, I acquired and used the following books to guide me :-

• CD - Make Your Own Horse Pack Saddle and
  CD - Make Your Own Working Donkey Harness and Gear
  Each of these books is written and self published on a CD (one book per CD) by Brian Beck, 3204 Ipswich-Boonah Rd, Roadvale, Qld 4310 Australia. Phone 07 5463-5106
  Each CD is AUD$49.00 Post and packing included (not available from the BNT)
  The first CD has an updated design for a horse pack saddle and several packing accessories. The second CD has designs for donkey gear for training, packing, riding, snigging and driving. In particular, it has an updated design for a donkey pack saddle.
  Both CDs have full instructions for making the pack saddle, including the "Equine Back Profiler System" and swivel bars to ensure the shape and angle of the bars can be exactly fitted to an individual animal.
  
• Bushcraft 7 Preserving Old Secrets
  Hardcover 160 pages, ISBN 1 875872 05 1 Includes instructions and drawings to make leggings, traditional Australian pack saddle & bags, Horse Gear & Hobbles and other Australian bush skills.

My packsaddles are an amalgam of the designs in these books and from an Australian Military swivel tree pack saddle. I wanted something of traditional and proven design but with a few advantages of some modern materials.

Sewing Leather With Saddler's Stitch
This is one skill that you must learn before starting construction. Start by using the instructions in the Bushcraft books and practise on a few scraps.

Tools
Very few tools are needed and they will last you a lifetime. The leatherworking tools are available from a leather / saddlery supplier (see resource list).

The tools I used include :-

• Stanley brand utility knife
  
• Ezylap brand diamond file. Essential for keeping knife and awl sharp. (you can use an oil stone instead)
  
• 2 foot steel rule (metric / imperial markings)
  
• Edge Shave (no.3 size - used to give a rounded edge to leather).
• Leather Awl with a few spare blades
  
• Edge crease - (puts a groove in leather a distance from edge. Stitching sits in the groove.)
• 5mm Pricking wheel - (A tool used to mark out evenly spaced stitch positions 5mm apart - looks like a spur rowel)
  
• Saddlers needles (store them in a small glass bottle with oily rag so they don't rust)
  
• Rivet Set - for use with 8 gauge x 7/8" copper rivets
  
• Rotary Punch & Strap Guide (for punching holes in harness straps. [mine is a "Maun Industries" brand] The strap guide (Maun No. 2220 Universal Plier Gauge) is optional but makes it easy to evenly space holes down the middle of a strap. Individual punches can substitute for the rotary punch if you are on a tight budget).
  
• 3/4" (19mm) punch. (for making the leather disks used when quilting the pad lining - stops the stitch pulling through the lining)
  
• Small pair of needle nose pliers (for pulling needles through if they get tight)
  
• 175mm long Doll Needle (used for making dolls or soft upholstery). Mine is a "Birch" brand No. 012953. The needle is available from haberdashery stores and used for quilting the pads.
• Small ball pane hammer (for rivet and punch work)
  
• Block of beeswax (for waxing the thread).
  

The Metalwork
I did not have stainless steel welding equipment so I had a local stainless steel place fabricate up the metalwork for the tree. I had them make two sets as I planned on making two saddles. I have a metal lathe and turned up both the pivot points and the points on the 12 mm diameter stainless rod that became the bag hooks. The fabricator bent the hooks to shape, rolled up the arch bars and did a beautiful job welding it all up with their TIG welder. I made up a jig to ensure the pivot points were parallel (so they don't bind as the swivel tree rotates) and spaced correctly. The fabricators also folded up the brackets that hold the pivot points to the wooden bars. Total cost - $120 for all the metalwork for 2 pack saddles.

Woodwork
Next step was to make up the wooden pack boards. I used the design in the Bushcraft book. Remember to drill the mounting holes for the pivot points accurately before cutting and shaping the boards. I used a spare piece of Tallow wood I had left over from putting a new floor in my horse truck. Any home workshop with a few basic woodworking tools can make the boards easily. I stained the wood and sealed it with a tough urethane varnish.

Leather
The next step was to get the leather. I got a side of 4mm thick harness leather - carefully selecting it so I could get four pieces for the pads for two saddles out of it. I reduced my cost by going for a second grade piece with a few cosmetic blemishes from poor storage. I figured the saddles would get a few dings from genuine use any way. For all the remaining bits of leatherwork, I purchased a side of 3mm thick Bridle leather. Total cost $365 for all the leather.

Pads
Next step was to mark out and cut the pads. Use a very sharp Stanley knife and metal rule. Measure twice and cut once is a motto to remember with any leatherwork. Don't use biros to mark out leather as the ink leaves an unsightly mess. Use a pencil. I marked the top front corner of my pads the same way as the army did by rounding the corner. (Each pad has three right angle corners and one rounded corner on the top front so the saddle has a distinct front and back). I used a metal coffee can as a template. Note that you need to do this in different positions for the left and right hand side pads. Dye all your leatherwork after it is cut out but before any moulding or stitching.

Edging Strip & Sewing
Next step is to sew the edging strip around the outside of your pads. This strip (from 3mm thick bridle leather) protects the edge of the leather pad sides and protects the stitching for the lining from abrasion. Mark out the stitching holes on one edge then the strip is soaked in water. It can then be moulded around the edge when wet and dried before stitching. Tacking the strip in place every 5 inches or so then sewing up to the tacking stitch really helps. I was initially daunted by the amount of sewing and it's thickness (3+4+3=10mm) but once started found it going quicker and quicker as my skill improved. Because the leather is 10mm thick all up, I found I had to use the awl from each side on every stitch hole so that the needles & thread would fit through. I'd do an hour or two in the evenings instead of watching TV and before I new it had completed the job. This is the hardest job in building a pack saddle. Sewing is in the traditional manner using two saddler's needles, an awl and saddler's stitch.

The picture shows how to get a neat corner by notching the edging strip but leaving a section the thickness of the pad leather then moulding it around the corner and sewing. Avoid joining edging pieces at the corners of the pads.

I obtained a spool of super strong waxed braided nylon thread. Many saddlers are using this new thread now and I can attest to it's quality and strength. One spool is about $35 but will do two pack saddles, with enough left over for repairs / leatherwork projects.

I would suggest that you do a trial edging on some scrap leather to refine your techniques before starting.

Pad Pockets
Next step is to cut out the pockets for the pack boards and mould them to shape. I used the design in the Beck book and used the end of a pack board for part of the mould (because the boards taper towards the end). Mark out your stitching line first and punch holes for the re-enforcing rivets. I bolted the pack boards to a piece of soft wood using the pivot mounting holes, soaked the leather, moulded to shape around the end of the pack boards and tacked it onto the softwood using a few cut tacks. I secured the corners down using the copper washer from the rivets and a self tapping screw into the softwood. When dry, prepare the lace up pocket slit and holes then rivet and sew onto the pack pad sides. The lace up pockets (one per bar) are normally placed at the front of the saddle. Be careful positioning the pad pockets so you can still get the wooden bars in but don't end up with a loose fit. Put on your leather dressing now (particularly the flesh side of the leather) before fitting the lining. Leather loses a lot of it's natural oils during the tanning & dying process. I personally think RM Williams beeswax based product is the best there is.

Pad Lining
Next step is to prepare the pad lining. Get your collar check (the strong woollen cloth) from the saddlery suppliers. Follow the principle in the Bushcraft book. Mark out on the inside of the pad lining using dress maker's French Chalk so it won't show. Fold and sew the corners instead of cutting the cloth so you don't weaken it. I made my pad thicker at the top like the traditional pack saddles. Sew the pack pad liner in place leaving a 100mm gap for stuffing the pad. This is a variation from the traditional method that has huge cuts in the leather underneath the pack boards for stuffing the pads. Why cut up the leather when you can stuff through an opening in the edge?

Pad Stuffing
Stuffing is very easy to do. Make up a stuffing rod from a bit of dowel or spread the end of a bit of 6mm steel rod as described in the books. I used the rod and found it worked well. Stuff the saddle with teased hair - available from leather or saddlery suppliers. This is the same stuff used to stuff good quality Australian Stock Saddles with. You'll use about 2.5Kg per pad. Be warned that people have tried to substitute other materials for the stuffing and have had bad troubles out on the trail. Pack the corners first then work your way from the bottom filling towards the top. Take your time and get a smooth, firm and lump free surface. Sew up the opening in the pad lining.

Quilting The Pads
Next step is to do the quilting to hold the pad stuffing in place - very easy if you get yourself a long needle from a haberdashery store. I used the same thread as the saddle stitching.

Finishing Off
Fit your arch bars and girth straps to the boards then your boards to your pads. Your saddle is now basically done.

Make up your harness using patterns in either the Bushcraft or Beck's book.

Synthetic Harness
As an alternative to leather, some people may consider synthetic strapping for the girth points, breastplate, briching and crupper. I have tracked down the manufacturer of the synthetic material used in harness. It has a webbing core and is coated in a synthetic material giving a smooth surface. This is the same stuff used in synthetic bridles, sulkey harness, hobble straps and for much of the easy care endurance riding equipment. It is extremely strong, easy to clean and doesn't pick up burrs or seeds that could hurt your horse or spread weeds. See the supplier section for details.

Pack Bags
Pack bags can be made of canvas or the new synthetic material used on curtain sided trucks (very strong and waterproof). Pack bags can be purchased new, made up by a company that can sew canvas (try companies that do horse rug repairs, caravan annexes, truck tarp manufacturers etc) or make them yourself if you have access to a sewing machine that can sew canvas. Beck's book has patterns for canvas ones & the Bushcraft book has patterns for traditional leather ones.

Pack Boxes
Technology has provided another option for carrying your gear - injection moulded high impact plastic pack boxes. These are available from suppliers in USA and Canada and range from sizes suitable for Llamas and Donkeys to extra big suitable for half draught or draught horses. They have the advantage of being rain proof and providing good protection for their contents from bashes on the trail and from campsite food raiders. The side closest the horse is curved for a better fit. When in camp, they can be used as seats or their lids used as a table. They can also double as a washing tub for your clothes. I imported mine from Custom Pack Rigging in Canada due to the better exchange rate than the USA.

Resources

Pack Saddle Manufacturers
The Overseer Saddlery
PO Box 1194 Armidale
NSW 2350 Australia
ph: (02) 6775 3728......... International Phone: 61 2 6775 3728
http://www.theoverseersaddlery.com.au

Hiscock Saddlery
Kincaid St
Wagga Wagga
NSW 2650 Australia
ph: (02) 6921 2458......... International Phone: 61 2 6921 2458
3rd generation Saddler - business established for 100 years.

G.Hurford
14 Cerreto Crt
Wollongbar
NSW 2477 Australia
ph: (02) 6628 6847......... International Phone: 61 2 6628 6847

Hiscock Tamworth
222 Marius St
Tamworth
NSW 2340 Australia
ph: (02) 6766 2187......... International Phone: 61 2 6766 2187

Leather and Saddler's Supplies
H Leffler & Son Pty Ltd
50-66 York St South Melbourne VIC 3205
ph: (03) 9690 3577......... International Phone: 61 3 9690 3577

Birdsall Leather & Crafts
36 Chegwyn St Botany NSW 2019
ph: (02) 9316 6299......... International Phone: 61 2 9316 6299

Toowoomba Saddlery
PO Box 6020.......266-268 McDougall St.
Toowoomba Qld....4350 Australia.
Phone: 07 46331855.........International Phone: 61 7 4633 1855

Pack Boxes, Pack Saddles & Pack Gear
Custom Pack Rigging http://www.custompackrigging.com
Welshes Saddlery http://www.welshssaddlery.com

Synthetic Strapping For Harness
Leatherite Pty Ltd
2 Journeyman Cl Berkeley Vale NSW 2261
ph: (02) 4388 3133......... International Phone: 61 2 4388 3133