The family - myself, wife (Debbie) and 2 boys (8 and 10 year old).
The car - Land Rover Discovery (petrol and LPG - spent $1,400 on fuel - see this report on fuel prices) with roof rack, and 4WD recovery kit that came in handy).
Gear for camping with family-sized dome tent plus any gear to be "self sufficient" when camping in the bush, eg. stove, bbq, Versalight, ample drinking water, car fridge, etc.

The planning consisted of searching the web for "must sees", National Park information, and other odds and sods, plus printing off all the Australian Caravan Park Reports for the Vic, SA and WA areas.  We phoned the SA and WA parks services and tourist offices and they posted us park information and travel brochures.  A useful brochure from Tourism Eyre Peninsula covered the entire Nullarbor trip with a great deal of useful information (you can download the 2.6 MB brochure online or order a hardcopy).  We visited the RACV and obtained "strip maps" and touring maps of all likely main routes - they could supply us with various maps from the RAA (SA) but evidently the RAC (WA) does not supply any of their maps for free!   The NRMA has a good web page explaining the drive across the Nullarbor and the Nullarbor Net has information on all towns along the way and places of interest.  We sorted all this into route order and placed it in a ring binder for the trip.  As we travelled, we supplemented this with information and maps from local tourist offices.

The missus and I took turns driving.  Mostly "one day on, one day off", although on the longer stretches we would swap for half the drive.  With this arrangement it seemed, to me at least, that Debbie had turns at the wheel during the best 4WDing.  But, did I grumble ... you bet I did!

We had no fixed plan other than to be in Perth by December 23rd, spending about 5 days with relatives, and then to be home around January 8th.  We wanted to see the Fleurieu Peninsula and/or Eyre Peninsula.  We wanted to go to Perth via Kalgoorlie and return via Albany.  On the return we wanted to travel along the Coorong in SA, finishing our trip along the Victorian coast.  Some of these plans changed as we drove but in essence we saw much of what we wanted.

We did not book any accommodation, as we did not know where we would be from day to day.  We planned to camp within as many National Parks as possible, rather than in caravan parks, so even within the peak January season we weren't worried about lack of camping options.

Routes
The trip, in fact, took the route below (the last town for each day is the overnighter - NP=National Park; CG=campground; CP=caravan park). All caravan parks and campgrounds have been reported within my Australian Caravan Park Reports web pages:

Day 1 - Melbourne, Horsham, Mt Arapiles NP CG.
Day 2 - Naracoorte Caves, 42 Mile Crossing CG Coorong NP.
Day 3 - Chinamans Well, Murray Bridge, Meningie, Mt Pleasant, Gawler, Clare CP.
Day 4 - Burra, Spalding, Gladstone, Wilmington, Hancocks Lookout, Horrocks Pass, Shoreline CP Port Augusta.
Day 5 - Whyalla, Kirton Point CP Port Lincoln.
Day 6 - Coffin Bay, Sheringa Lagoon, Elliston, Murphy's Haystacks, Streaky Bay CP.
Day 7 - Poochera (took a wrong turn that cost us 120 kms), Ceduna, Eucla CP.
Day 8 - Madura, Balladonia, Norseman, Coolgardie CP.
Day 9 - Southern Cross, Meckering, Perth (5 days).

Day 1 - Bussellton, Yallingup, Margaret River, Conto Beach CG Leeuwin-Naturaliste NP (2 nights).
Day 3 - Georgette Track (4WD only), Augusta, Pemberton, Northcliffe, Shannon NP CG.
Day 4 - Walpole, Crystal Springs CG Walpole-Nornalup NP (backtracked 13 kms from Walpole).
Day 5 - Giant Tingle tree, Tree-top walk & Valley of the Giants, Cosy Corner Foreshore CG (near Albany) (2 nights).
Day 7 - Whaleworld Museum, Stokes NP CG.
Day 8 - Esperance, Condingup, Balladonia (via 4WD road), Caiguna CP.
Day 9 - Cocklebiddy Cave, Eucla beach (4WD), all Nullarbor lookouts, Nullarbor Roadhouse CP.
Day 10 - Ceduna, Poochera *sigh*, Kimba, Pandurra Station CP.
Day 11 - Port Augusta, Port Pirie, Port Wakefield, Two Wells, Gawler, Tulunga CP Mt Pleasant.
Day 12 - Birdswood, Mt Barker, Murray Bridge, Keith CP.
Day 13 - Nhill, Horsham, World in Miniature at Stawell, Melbourne.

Day 1:
The inland route to Adelaide turned out to be very hot so at Horsham we decided to head "south" to the Coorong to take in the cooler weather.  (On the return we'd decide whether to do the coast through Victoria or go direct to Melbourne, depending upon the weather.)  We came across Mt Arapiles State Park and decided to stay the night at the Centenary Park campground.  Mt Arapiles is a magnet for rock climbers so most of the campers were the younger set.  The view from the top (by car on sealed road) is breathtaking of the surrounding plains.

Day 2:
The next day we saw some of the Naracoorte caves and on a suggestion by Ken M of Bribie Island we also saw the Wonambi Fossil Centre at the same location (good suggestion, Ken).  We decided to stay somewhere on the Coorong National Park that night and a local at Kingston suggested 42 Mile Crossing, south of Salt Creek, which was nice and quiet  - we were the only ones there. (Click this link for a PDF file of the Coorong National Park - you will need Adobe Acrobat to view it.)  The campground is 3 kms off the highway and is suitable for caravans.  The stars that night were magnificent.

Day 3:
The following morning I coaxed the missus to drive to the beach (along the 1.3km 4WD track) and then part way along the beach.  We hadn't ever attempted any sand driving before, so I drove back to experience it.  The kids still taunt me about nearly becoming stuck as we inched our way up a large sand hill on the 4WD road back to the campsite.  We hadn't deflated the tyres, which would have made it easier going (and less strain on the nerves).  A sightseeing walk at Chinamans Well, a little further up the Coorong, was interesting and taught the kids about the hardships of the early goldmining days.  Here we met a motor-biking couple from Germany who we saw again at the Melrose Caravan Park two days later!

We decided to utilise the showers at a Murray Bridge service station, but as we were getting ready I received a business phone call from New Zealand.  I was on the phone for 35 minutes while the family showered.  When I finished the phone call and tried to have a shower I found that some cretin had left the hot water running in the babies change room and there was now no hot water.

We decided to skip the Fleurieu Peninsula on the way over and see if we had time to go down that way on our return, so we meandered our way up to the Clare Valley from Murray Bridge.  It's a lovely drive up that way and sure beats the "boring" Number 1 out of Adelaide.  We also wanted to drive through Horrocks Pass up nearer Port Augusta. We settled for the night at the Clare CP.

Day 4:
Ken M from Bribie Island, had sent me a report on the Burra CP the day before we left but I forgot to print it off - I was reminded of it for some reason at Clare, so the next morning we diverted to see Burra and were glad we did.  It was interesting to see the old mine sites and historical buildings - the kid's favourite bit was standing in the old mining trolleys (kids never change, do we).

We were going to camp that night at a bush camp in Melrose, but were informed by the caretaker of Melrose Caravan Park, who collected the fees, that the unpowered bush site, with only a toilet that didn't work anyway due a problem with the water, was $20.  The park itself looked comfortable but they wanted $25 for an unpowered site there.  Forget it!  (Interestingly, Dennis of Adelaide paid a lot less in January for a powered site at Melrose CP - hmmm?)  We decided to push on to Port Augusta Big 4, which had good reports.

Hancocks Lookout (along an easy, 5 km dirt road suitable for caravans) off the Horrocks Pass road was spectacular and is a "must see", as it overlooks the top of the Spencer Gulf up to Port Augusta, with Whyalla and Port Pirie in the distance to the south - truly breathtaking.  Coming down from Horrocks Pass we stopped at the level crossing near the highway to wait for a goods train that the kids had seen coming - 2 engines, 88 wagons and 7 minutes later we were on our way.  The first thing we did when we arrived in Port Augusta was to climb the lookout tower which gives spectacular views of the surrounding area and the far Flinders Ranges.  The tower is accessed by a sign-posted road on the left about 500 meters after crossing the bridge from Adelaide.  Port Augusta Big 4 wanted $29 for an unpowered site *shakes head* so we went to the Shoreline CP for $21.  Both parks warn of pilfering from vans and campsites by locals, which is probably why Shoreline had high, barbed-wire fences - Stalag Shoreline?

Day 5:
I definitely wanted to see the Eyre Peninsula on the way over so that we didn't have too many "side trips" on the return trip.  We spent a lot of the day in Whyalla - on the decommissioned HMAS Whyalla on the highway, a "must see", and later walking the sand flats dodging blue swimmer crabs (oh for a net!).  The HMAS Whyalla is "dry docked" 2 kms inland and adjoins an interesting maritime museum that includes a model railway - check out the special room that details the voyages of Matthew Flinders.  If you have kids and are passing through Whyalla, try to time it for just before low tide and walk the sand flats - cooling, relaxing and a lot of fun.  Three dolphins played in the boat harbour waiting for returning fisherman who threw a few fish to them.  Take the short drive up to the lookout - it's worth it.

After nearly being run off the road by an Australia Post van that must have been travelling at over 140 kph, we encountered a wide load that we had to follow for the next 32 kms.  The load was so wide that oncoming traffic had to stop way off the road.  After driving through 42C temperatures since Whyalla, we came into thunderstorms as we reached Port Lincoln, so we bought chicken and chips for dinner and stayed in a cabin rather than the planned Lincoln National Park or Coffin Bay National Park.  Warstar of Rye had recommended Port Lincoln CP but their cabins were dearer than Kirton Point CP where we stayed.  While waiting in the car with the engine running and air conditioner on, as Debbie bought dinner, I was surprised by a young local who came over to ask if we needed help.  Very kind and considerate and, regretfully, less common these days (a few weeks earlier I waited in a very busy Bunnings car park with the bonnet raised, for over an hour, and only 2 people (also with 4WDs) asked if I needed assistance *sigh*).

Day 6:
In the morning we drove over 20 kms of mostly dirt road to Whalers Way, only to find it was a "tourist trap" and not a scenic drive as we thought, and the bloody thing was temporarily closed until after Boxing Day for some type of filming!  I chastised the youth who was stationed at the locked gate for not putting up a "closed" sign 20 kms back down the road as the road only leads to Whalers Way!  He was indifferent to the suggestion.  We were later to find out that the filming was in fact the Australian Survivor series being shot at Whalers Way over 6 weeks! I wonder how many people made the 20 kms drive in those six weeks only to be turned back?

Coffin Bay was beautiful but we didn't have time to do more than let the kids play on a beach for awhile - the wind made fishing impossible. We will try to stay in this beautiful spot some other time.  On a whim, Debbie suggested we drive down to Sheringa Lagoon (40 kms south-east of Elliston), where we came across some great sand dunes!  We had wanted to visit Point Labatt seal colony (55 kms south-east of Streaky Bay) but time was running late that day.  We managed a quick diversion to Murphy's Haystacks *yawn* (40 kms south-east of Streaky Bay) and arrived late at Streaky Bay CP.  The caravan park is great for caravanners, but as we were camping we were very disappointed with the location and amenities provided for campers - chalk and cheese.

Day 7:
The next morning we let the kids wet the fishing line at a boat ramp a few kms around the point from the park (the missus caught a Tommy Rough, or something) - the kids had more fun throwing bits of bait to the fish that could be seen in the crystal clear waters.

After leaving Streaky Bay (109 kms from Ceduna), we unknowingly missed the turnoff to Ceduna and I had a "heart attack" when we reached the Eyre Highway at Poochera, 139 kms from Ceduna.  What idiot designed the road so that the major road turned off a minor one?!?!  If you wish to stop in Ceduna for lunch, an excellent park with picnic tables, free bbq, and water, is opposite the Foreshore Caravan Park.  If coming from Adelaide veer left to City Centre and head straight to the foreshore then turn left.  If coming from Perth head straight through City Centre and turn right at Day Terrace.

We arrived at Eucla CP very late after travelling 680 kms.  We were pleased to hear that the unpowered site would only cost us $6!  However, I was to find that many campers trying any of the Nullarbor campsites need a jackhammer to enable them to secure the tent pegs into the limestone!  I was glad I had packed my supply of heavy-duty pegs and hadn't relied on the ones that came with the new dome tent (they bent like toothpicks).

About 200 kms before Eucla we had encountered another wide load, which we noticed the next morning parked just 100 meters to the east of Eucla CP.  I was surprised to see the same wide load and trucks still parked there on our return trip some weeks later!

Day 8:
The following day was the obligatory visit to the Eucla Telegraph Station.  History meant nothing to the kids who just wanted to play "cops and robbers" in the sand amongst the ruins.  We realised that we'd have to hit the peddle if we wanted to make it to Perth by the 23rd, so that day meant 880 kms of driving, having to miss seeing Kalgoorlie and arriving at Coolgardie CP in the dark.  I hate country driving at dusk and in the dark because of the kangaroos, but thankfully we arrived at Coolgardie without incident.  Here we met a father and young son from Brisbane who were camping their way to Perth, while the wife and daughters had flown across!  Like us, they had camped the night before at Eucla, so I didn't feel so crazy doing 880 kms in one leg (or were they crazy too?).

Day 9:
We spent a lot of the morning inspecting Coolgardie - the Goldfields Museum and Exhibition at the Tourist Bureau is a definite "must see" and is only $3.30 per adult (we could have spent hours in there but had to head off).  We had an oyster lunch in Southern Cross - the oysters were bought back at Streaky Bay and kept fresh in our DC car fridge.  Southern Cross has the best public restrooms and a lovely shaded park we'd seen in a while (turn at swimming pool signpost in the town centre - the restrooms are on the left amongst the shops, and the park is further down beside the swimming pool).  After inspecting the Meckering earthquake sites, we arrived in Perth at 8pm.

In Perth:
While at Perth we drove up to Yanchep National Park for a picnic lunch with the relatives.  We had been there back in '89 and had stumbled across a cave in the bush just off the road.  A guided tour is available through Crystal Cave, but we wanted to find "our" cave again.  After lunch we walked from the main car park toward Crystal Cave and eventually found our cave again, about 100 meters on the right before Crystal Cave.  With our torches we ventured into the cave and found it extended down into two other caves.  The kids thought it was great and better than being on a "guided" tour.  We found several other, much smaller caves that day and the kids said it was the best day so far!

Perth to Melbourne:
Day 1 & 2:
We promised the kids that the trip back to Melbourne would be more leisurely and that we would see things that we had "bypassed" on the way over to Perth.  First stop was Bussellton Jetty where we were shocked to find that they now charged you a fee to walk the 2 kilometres!  The hoards of flies along the boardwalk were intolerable, so we left.  Next stop was Yallingup, at the north end of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park.  Having seen this area many years ago, we had named our house Yallingup,  so wanted to show the area to the kids.  They were not in the least interested that Yallingup was aboriginal for "place of love, near water".

The first overnight stop resulted in spending two relaxing days at Conto Beach Campground, about 18 kms south-west of Margaret River.  The drive further along, past the campground to the coast, brought us to some impressive coastline.  One day we walked 30 minutes each way along Conto Beach to see the remains of a Blue Whale carcass - very interesting as long as you stayed up-wind *phew*.  We walked 20 minutes along a bush track from the campground to Lakes Cave, only to find that they wanted $40 for a family ticket for the cave tour!  I suggested to the missus that if they hadn't spent so much money building such an impressive café and visitors centre, then the price of admission may have been cheaper.  All that was there in '89 was an unimposing little hut and a much cheaper entry fee.  I was reminded of what someone had said before we left Melbourne about National Parks pricing themselves away from families.  The highlight was the pleasant walk along the bush track with dozens of black cockatoos flying overhead for much of the time.

Day 3:
We left Conto to find a 4WD track that meandered through the Karri forests.  However, I took a wrong turn off Point Road (by now my navigation skills were wearing thin) and we found ourselves on Georgette Track, a rough 4WD track.  We decided to stick it out for awhile, eventually finding our way onto Borunup Track that took us to the highway.  It was on this track that a car passed us doing about 50 kph with a young child, about 9 years old, sitting on the bonnet!  Then we (well me again, actually) missed a turnoff to Karridale and ended up in Augusta, which we hadn't intended visiting, planning instead to head straight to Nannup - at least we were seeing some more of the country, honey (my navigating has not improved since I got ourselves bogged in the Yarra State Forest on January 2nd, 2000!).

As you approach Pemberton along the Vasse Highway, about 3 kms from town you get a fantastic view of the town nestled amongst the forests (almost hamlet-like) - it's a picture postcard photo opportunity.   The missus and kids (remember, 8 and 10 year old) climbed the Gloucester Tree at Pemberton - I stayed on the ground for morale support, ahem.  I was astounded at the kid's fortitude - the youngest one didn't used to like climbing the tree in our back yard!  To see them make their way up over 72 meters on steel spikes driven into the tree trunk (the little one had to stretch for each step) had me bordering on heart failure!  The kids received a round of applause from onlookers when they came down - and I started breathing again.  The Park Ranger gave the children some bird seed to feed the Rainbow Lorikeets and within seconds dozens of them were feeding out of their hands as  tourists took pictures.  We then drove to Warren National Park where the kids then climbed to the first platform of the Bicentennial Tree (which is higher than the Gloucester but not as well visited).  I insisted that my nerves could not handle them going any higher.  We then drove around the 10 km one-way road at Warren National Park looking for a campsite, but all were taken, so we spent New Years Eve at the campground at Shannon National Park (a far better location anyway, as it turned out).

Day 4:
In the morning we had to borrow an electric pump to inflate a punctured tyre and later that morning embarrassingly had to ask the same people to jump start our flat battery - we had had the fridge and Versalight going until after midnight, then again in the morning we had the fridge and tyre pump running - all too much for the battery.  It had us later discussing about installing a second battery before our next holiday (Debbie has already enquired about it upon returning home).  The people who helped us were extremely obliging and said that one day we'd help someone in turn (that day came sooner than expected).

We travelled the short distance to Walpole.  We planned to stay at Walpole that day, as we had set off late from Shannon and wanted to see the tourist sites in the region east of Walpole in one hit.  The people at the Information Centre said that the best camping was at Crystal Springs Campground in the Walpole-Nornalup National Park, so we did a quick 13 km back-track.  It was early afternoon so we decided to try some sand driving.  This time we deflated the tyres to 20 PSI and drove to Banksia Camp.  The Ranger had said that with the tyres deflated we (novices) would have no problem, but as the road was one car width in most places (with scrub on either side) we had to proceed with caution.  The tyres could easily be re-inflated with the air hose supplied at the Rangers station adjacent to our campground (very handy!).  With the tyres deflated, the extremely loose black sand was no problem, even up some reasonably steep sandy hills.  After a short while I relaxed and enjoyed it (what a pity that I was not driving - that's why the missus was relaxed too!).  We confidently drove down a rather steep, sandy track onto the beach.  We did a spot of fishing, lost a float and mucked about for awhile.  On the way back we helped a 4WD Suzuki rescue a bogged RAV4 by lending them our tow rope from our recovery kit.  After I dug out the sand from in front of their tyres (here the Shannon good deed was repaid already) he was on his way again.  We re-inflated our tyres at the Ranger station on our return to the campsite (we would not have attempted the Banksia trip if the air hose had not been available). Our 4WD adventure had been great fun.

Day 5 & 6:
The following morning at Walpole we came across 100 members of the Gypsy Jokers bike gang being escorted by 200 Police, who had stopped at the town during their bike run.  It was an awesome sight.  On leaving the town at a slow 40 kph, a policeman stepped out in front of our car without looking - only the slow speed stopped me from running him over.  The sound of my horn made everyone turn around and smile at the startled and red-faced officer (tee hee).

We then drove on to see the Giant Tingle Tree, or rather what's left of it.  Over the years it is gradually thinning out due to forest fires.  It is still a worthwhile sight, though.  On this road, we saw a 4WD with two young kids on the roof rack, lying on top of loose mattresses!  We stopped their car and warned the driver how stupid and dangerous his actions were - the driver's comment was that his Dad let him do it when he was a kid, but he got the kids down anyway.  Sheesh!  Is roof-rack and bonnet riding a WA trait?  We continued on to see the Tree Top Walk and Valley of the Giants.  The Tree Top Walk is relatively interesting.  I'm also not one for being on a swaying steel gantry 40 meters above the ground.

We had planned to stay at West Cape Howe National Park that night, 30 kms west of Albany.  However, the small campground was literally cram-packed with tents belonging to hang gliders, although the stunning cliff scenery along the last kilometre down to the campground more than made up for the "wasted" drive and is worth a visit if you're out that way.  We backtracked to Cosy Corner foreshore and liked the location so much that we decided to stay two days.  The kids boogie-boarded in the safe surf while I later tried some beach fishing.  I only managed to catch three undersized blue swimmer crabs!  Never one to admit defeat, I was up at 6am to try my luck again, although I have now come to realise (since our honeymoon all those years ago) that my wife is the fisher-person in the family.  Whilst camped at Cosy Corner we drove to Albany to see some of the sights.  Our first stop was The Princess Royal Fort: a "must see", especially for kids (you won't get them off the relocated warship guns).  Entry fee is very reasonable.  The cafe has sensibly priced Devonshire teas, with the jam and cream overflowing!  *Yum*.  While we toured the fort the cafe kindly recharged our spare video battery.  When we arrived back at our camp we found that the Ranger had left a note saying that camping was not permitted in the summer months.  This was news to us and to the several other campers, one with a large motorhome and another with a whopping big bus.  We all stayed that night and left in the morning.  It is a nice place, completely sheltered from the beach, and is worth camping in season.

Day 7:
The following morning was spent visiting the Whaleworld Museum.  This is a "must see" at least once, especially the guided tour, the movie in the theatrette and the new 3D animated display, which was intriguing in itself.  We then headed off towards Esperance.  We almost stayed the night at Ravensthorpe Hotel (for something different) but a local told us that the proprietor ran the place with the local miners in mind and prices to match, so we continued on to Stokes National Park.

The campground at Stokes National Park reminded us of Conto Beach Campground: the campsites were individual, secluded sites on a one-way road.  However, here each campsite only had a picnic table, the bbq was communal and fires were not allowed.  The sign to the toilet said 100 metres, but it was only 10 meters away (if I had some tape I would have masked the extra zero!).  That night the sky was ablaze with stars and the kids were thrilled when we saw four satellites pass overhead within a space of about ten minutes.  Shortly before leaving in the morning, we drove around to inspect the second camping area.  We found that some sites indeed had their own covered BBQs and some were suitable for caravans!  However, the Ranger that morning had said that this area had been full the night before.

Day 8:
On to Esperance, which held no fascination for us particularly as it was overcast and cool.  Unfortunately we needed to have what turned out to be a slow tyre leak fixed since leaving Shannon (we had been pumping it up each morning at petrol stations).  Esperance Tyrepower really assisted us in a BIG way and also offered some good advice about the 4WD trek we were planning to attempt that afternoon.  I can't thank them enough for what they did, and for my only "sales plug" I'd highly recommend Tyrepower if you need anything to do with tyres whilst in Esperance!  Driving through Esperance we passed the Seafront Caravan Park and marvelled at why anyone would want to spend their holidays crammed in one spot like sardines.  The place was packed!

After leaving, we did a quick detour to visit the sand hills at Wylie Bay, about 10 kms east of Esperance along Goldfields Road.  To get to the sand hills you have to drive along the beach at the end of Wylie Road, then head left off the beach just after passing the large rocks (about 1 km along the beach).  You'll need your tyres deflated for the trip off the beach towards the hills.  We saw a 2WD car driving along the beach, but we also saw another 2WD bogged off Wylie Road, so please yourself if you don't have a 4WD!  Unfortunately, as we made this drive it started raining and blowing a gale, so we cancelled our sand-boarding and returned to the main road to continue our trip.

The missus had talked me into bypassing Norseman by taking a 4WD track from east of Cape Le Grand National Park, at Condingup, inland up to Balladonia (she didn't need to do a lot of coaxing).  I had wanted to visit Orleans Bay which from a park report by Geoff Herbert of Tasmania, is supposed to be excellent, but we were again running behind time.  We still had a 200 km dirt road and then another 180 kms to Caiguna (out next planned stop) ahead of us.  I stopped the car at the turnoff to Orleans Bay, which was just 25 kms away - or 50 kms return plus side trips, as Debbie pointed out, so I reluctantly turned north at the intersection and headed off to Balladonia.  So close yet so far away, Geoff.

The road from Condignup is sealed for about 30 kms then is reasonable straight dirt road, which gradually starts to deteriorate into a rougher dirt road that meanders through changing bushland.  This continues for about 120 kms with varying degrees of "roughness" but we could reasonably do between 80 and 100 kph in most sections.  It definitely was interesting driving this road, with scrub close-in either side of you, nothing but billowing bull-dust behind you, and the occasional willy-willy ahead of you whipping up the dust.  We then came to a sign that said that the next 61 kms was 4WD only (the same sign is at the very start of the northern end).  We had been told that it would be no problem for us in the current dry climate.  What we encountered were long ruts made by cars and trucks that had previously traversed this stretch in the wet.  The going was okay, around 30-60 kph tops, and made for an exciting trip.  There are also two cattle gates to open and close (Debbie was the lucky passenger on this leg relegated to this duty), so even though signs warn you as you approach, do look out for them as some willy-willys kicked up a bit of dust, thus obscuring visibility ahead.  All too soon we were at the highway, about 300 metres east of the Balladonia roadhouse, where we stopped to refuel and inspect the dust-laden car - what a sight!  If you have a 4WD, without a caravan, and wish to travel from the Nullarbor to Esperance a different way than via Norseman, then try this road if it hasn't been raining - enquire at the roadhouse as to the current conditions.

We stayed overnight at Caiguna CP, which ripped us off for $21 for an unpowered, rough limestone site with very basic, dirty amenities. 5 kms west of Caiguna is a blowhole, just 5 metres off the southern side of the road (signposted).

Day 9:
11 kms west of Cocklebiddy (1 km before the 10 km marker) is a parking bay on the north side of the road.  There is a 10 km dirt track (not signposted) heading off into the scrub here that leads to Cocklebiddy Cave.  The track to the cave is easy going but a bit risky for a caravan as it was a slightly rutted and furrowed in some places, however for much of the way there are multiple tracks running parallel and criss-crossing, so I'm sure you'd find one that is okay for a van (but don't hold me accountable).  We encountered many kangaroos on this track, so be careful as we had a few dart across our path.  Nearer the cave, the track veers off into three directions - we took the left track, only to realise that all three tracks (seemingly) made their way to the cave.   The cave itself is signposted at the track end and leads down from a path along a small canyon.  The cave is not suitable for the "unfit" as you need to make your way over some loose, steep terrain of rocks and boulders, and then back up again!  You will need a good torch (take two for safety) and optionally some matches.  There is a safe, sturdy 20-foot steel ladder leading down into the cave start.  There is no defined path down through the cave but we found the best route was nearer the left side.  As you descend, the sunlight starts to diminish.  The cave descends an estimated 300 metres at roughly 45 degrees over and around varying sized rocks and boulders, and the whole route is like being in a very large cavern, at least 10 meters at the narrowest to about 100 meters at the thickest, so it's never claustrophobic.  At the end it levels out and you come to a lake.  There were candles on a rock, so light the candles and turn off your torch.  Magnificent!!  As you climb back out the view is great as well, as you look back at the entrance that appears to tower above you in the distance.  We forgot to take our camera and are still kicking ourselves.  Dennis from Adelaide wrote me just after we got back and he found the cave to be a highlight of his trip to Perth (I agree, Dennis).

We had read of a blowhole on the old highway at Madura.  We eventually found the old highway road at the back of the lookout 1 km west of the service station/motel.  We drove down this road looking for "a red marker on a post".  We eventually found it near the other end of the road.  It's easier to find if you drive up the old highway road from directly opposite the entrance to the service station.  The blowhole is about 400 meters up the hill on the left, marked by a red marker and rocks piled on the road (we added to the size of the rock pile to make it easier to spot).

5 kms west of Eucla, just as the road bends towards Eucla on the hill, there is a road off to the south (there's a signpost there but I can't remember if it said "beach" or not).  This easy, dirt track takes you to Eucla beach and is suitable for caravans in the dry (veer left at the fork with a white thingy on a fence).  The last few hundred meters is sand and only suitable for 4WD, but very safe if you deflate your tyres to about 25 PSI - you can inflate them again at Eucla (even if you have to quickly backtrack the 5 kms if you're heading west).  This beach is used by the local Cray fisherman so don't be surprised to see some boats anchored off the beach in this "out of the way" place.  The uninterrupted views up and down the beach are amazing.  We then did another quick trip out to the Telegraph Station to let the kids play in the sand again.

Our overnight stop was at the Nullarbor Roadhouse - nothing to write home about concerning this place.  The same limestone sites as with all the Nullarbor places, little shade and shared amenities with the public.  We arrived here at 9:15 at night, as we had chosen to stop at all the scenic lookouts across the Plain, so it was another "eyes peeled for kangaroos" drive from dusk to dark - and there were indeed quite a few roos on the side of the road.  It was also 'fun' putting up the tent in the dark with a force 10 gale.  We had noticed that along the Nullarbor quite a few caravans opted to use the parking areas at night.   There were a few good parking areas that are well off the road, some secluded by trees and others beside the three undercover "drinking water" tanks, that all had a number of vans parked for the night.  This would be our option when we next travel with the caravan across the Nullarbor, only stopping at one of the roadhouses for a shower when required.

On the drive from Eucla to the Nullarbor Roadhouse we were lucky to see (and photograph) quite a few wedge-tailed eagles close-up on the side of the road, and two dingoes!  In fact, the kids kept a log of the different animals they saw on the trip and it makes an interesting list.

Day 10:
The leg from Nullarbor was nothing out of the ordinary except that our Discovery's automatic gears started playing up - it didn't want to go into reverse and the gear selector lights didn't want to show what gear we were in (we suffered with this until after we arrived back at Melbourne).

We had promised the kids that we'd stay at the Nuttbush Retreat, which is at Pandurra Station, on the Eyre Highway 40 kms west of Port Augusta.  It was very well laid out, relaxing, and we'd use this again in future rather than use the overpriced Port Augusta caravan parks - despite being woken at 7am by the station staff starting up their work bikes in readiness for setting off for the day's work on the 400 sq km sheep station.

Day 11:
At Nuttbush, I received a phone call that required me to be in Melbourne in four days, so I had to explain to the kids that our planned Victorian coast return was cancelled.  We made our way down the highway from Port Augusta, and north of Snowtown we raced the Indian Pacific overland train (one engine and 17 carriages) at 110 kph.  I wanted to show the kids the National Motor Museum at Birdswood so we turned off at Two Wells for Mt Pleasant, the nearest town to Birdswood with a caravan park, arriving early and having a relaxing time with the kids, kicking the footy, etc. in the small council caravan park atmosphere.

Day 12:
The next morning was spent at the Steam and Whistle model train display, the largest permanent model train set-up in the southern hemisphere, a "must see" for young and old, and under $4 an adult.  I've seen some large model railway displays in my time, and even I gave a revered "oh my gosh!" (or words to that affect) when I walked into this place.  I had to drag myself away so we could continue our trip.

Next stop was the National Motor Museum, which is another "must see", at $24 for a family ticket.  The kids soon tired of Mum and Dad's reminiscing about the cars we learnt to drive in or owned.  We set off to join the freeway at Mt Barker and headed off towards Victoria, not yet knowing where we were going to stay that night.

For our last night we had decided to stay in a park cabin or on-site van (after 3 weeks of my putting up and taking down a tent this sounded like luxury!).  Using the mobile phone we found that prices varied up to $70 between Keith SA and Stawell Vic.  We chose to stay at Keith CP - onsite van $26 - and had a pleasant dinner with a few beers at the nearby hotel.

Day 13:
In the morning we headed off before we encountered the forecasted 38C temperatures, had a quick lunch at Horhsam, and then found the World in Miniature ($25 a family), just east of Stawell, where we spent nearly 2 hours.  This place would have been more enjoyable in cooler temperatures.  The kids loved it but I wouldn't class it as a "must see" as I get the impression that it's not being maintained and will eventually "fall below par".

West of Bacchus Marsh, the skyline of Melbourne CBD could be seen as we came down the hills of the Werribee Gorge State Park, and that sinking feeling of the holiday being over set in.  *sigh*  You start to go over in your mind about what you have seen during the last four weeks (good thing I wasn't driving) and wonder where the days went.  I started boring the kids by recollecting all the things we'd seen.  We arrived home at 8pm.  I put off unpacking the camping gear from the car for 2 days but had to eventually do it so we could put the car in to get the gear selector fixed.

Epilog
As I write this, a week or so later, I have received caravan park reports from Dennis of Adelaide.  He just completed a similar trip a couple of days behind us - Adelaide to Perth, Esperance, Cocklebiddy Cave, ...  The trip across the Nullarbor (Ceduna to Norseman) is still a great drive, and by seeing all the travellers is obviously undertaken by many like-minded people.  I remember the father and son at Coolgardie making their own way from Brisbane, two loud Yank girls at Eucla, three Irish lasses with lovely accents at Pandurra, the decked-out buses, the "insane" cyclists (why are they mostly Japanese?) and the myriad caravans and family cars with roof racks.  99% wave as you pass.  I can't wait to do it again.

As a footnote, it was, as we've always found, common to find that the advertised caravan park prices in our RACV accommodation guide was incorrect and the parks would not honour the printed prices.  A couple of times the prices to be charged were double the printed price.  We have found that the only use these guides have is to allow you to locate a caravan park in a town - the current price and amenity quality are then "pot luck".  For example, the person at Port Augusta Big 4 practically "lied through her teeth" trying to explain away the exorbitant price increase, supposedly quoting from her latest book, then embarrassingly finding that it was wrong after saying she had checked it, "just last week"!  She wouldn't even honour that price!  Do owners or managers know how their front-line staff turn away paying customers, or is policy like this bullishly set by them?   We just voice our disapproval and go elsewhere - maybe more people should do this when the option allows!

Must See's
Mt Arapiles Vic (***) - views
Wonambi Fossil Centre, Naracoorte Caves SA (***) - history
National Motor Museum, Birdwood SA (****) - history
Steam and Whistle Model Trains, Mt Pleasant SA (****) - hobbies
Burra area SA (***) - history
Hancock's Lookout, Horrocks Pass SA (*****) - views
Whyalla Maritime Museum, Whallya SA (****) - history
Coffin Bay, Eyre Peninsula SA (***) - scenery
Nullarbor lookouts, Nullarbor Plain SA (*****) - views
Cocklebiddy Cave, Cocklebiddy WA (*****) - scenery
Goldfields Museum, Coolgardie WA (****) - history
Gloucester and Bicentennial trees, Pemberton WA (****) - views
Princess Royal Fort, Albany WA (***) - history
Whaleworld Museum, Albany WA (****) - history